Walk Derbyshire – A Walk Along the Monsal Trail
During the height of the railway mania tracks were being laid often with little or no purpose, throughout the land. While there were already lines running up the east and west coasts, linking London to Edinburgh and Glasgow, with cross country connections to Birmingham and other major industrial areas across industrial Midlands, Manchester and the burgeoning cotton towns of east Lancashire had no direct link to the south of England. As a result, a line was planned, running directly up the middle of the country, with off shoots east and west linking it to both the engineering giants of Birmingham and the ‘pot banks’ of Stoke on Trent. It would start at the ‘cathedral’ station of St Pancras in London and finish as befitted Manchester’s status at the business-like Central Station right in the heart of Cottonopolis. George Stephenson being the leading railway engineer of the time, was invited to build the line that became known, for obvious reasons, as the Midland Railway. Running the track directly up the country, he encountered no major problems in driving it more or less due north, through Leicester and Derby. It was when the line began to cut its way to the north of Derby, where Stephenson was so confident in the line’s potential that he made the then small market town the manufacturing centre of his operations. He also laid the foundations of lines running east and west, east to Nottingham and Lincoln and southwest to Birmingham and west to Liverpool by way of a hub of Crewe, eventually the manufacturing and traffic control of lines reaching north and west. It was while Stephenson was carving his Midland Line north of Derby that he hit the first of many problems. South of Derby all had been plain sailing so to say. Unlike today with HS2, there had been no serious objections, in fact landowners were falling over backwards in co-operation, hoping to fill their pockets with the wealth offered by both selling the land allowing the line to cross their land, and more importantly, lining their pockets with dividends from the business created by this, the most profitable way of carrying goods up and down the country. His troubles began once his line made its way beyond the hitherto easy-going flat countryside in the south, with no serious hills to cross or tunnel through. It was at Whatstandwell, whose tiny station became Florence Nightingale’s link with the rest of England, where the hard work began. Also, it aroused political in-fighting by two dukes. Beyond this tiny village, the route had to carve its way through the massive limestone bulk of High Tor and similar outcrops further north. It was when the line reached Rowsley that Stephenson’s troubles really began; it was here incidentally, that an important marshalling yard for goods trains running north and south eventually developed, probably one of the few advantages that came his way. Stephenson’s original plan, and one that amazingly had the blessing of the then Duke of Devonshire, was to run the line along the Derwent Valley, joining it with the planned Sheffield to Manchester Railway at Hathersage. His planed route would not spoil Capability Brown’s masterpiece of Chatsworth Park with its view from the Palace of the Peak. Here his line would travel between the green fields of Beeley and Baslow, running beneath the park, by way of a tunnel created by a method known as ‘cut and cover’. Trains would effectively disappear beyond Rowsley and reappear at Baslow where a station was planned for the Duke’s convenience. Unfortunately, this suggestion failed, mainly because the Duke of Rutland successfully lobbied in Parliament for the line to take a route that was more convenient to him, together with his own semi-private station at Bakewell, close to Haddon Hall. In retrospect this seems a rather petty idea, as Haddon Hall is more or less equidistant between Rowsley and Bakewell. Not only did the plan remove the possibility of a convenient station to Chatsworth at Baslow, but it forced the Duke of Devonshire to make alternative plans for his journeys to and from London and forcing Stephenson to build an alternative station near Hassop, far from any other passengers. From Stephenson’s point of view, re-routing the line was a potential disaster. While his original plan took the line through the fairly open and almost level countryside of the upper Derwent Valley, the new route forced the line to climb high above Bakewell, in order to gain the height needed for the climb through almost alpine terrain in the Upper Wye Valley of Monsal and Miller’s Dales. What became one of the most scenic railways in Britain was only built after the input of large amounts of cash and manpower. Another un-budgeted cost was the need for locomotives with the extra power needed to haul trains over this ‘alpine’ route. These became the beautiful maroon Pacific locomotives once used to haul trains from London St Pancras to Manchester’s Central Station. With the demise of the line following the Beeching report, the Midland was closed beyond Matlock and stripped of its track. Fortunately, this allowed the Peak District National Park to take over large sections of it together with its tunnels and scenic viaducts in order to create the Monsal Trail, an all-weather route for walkers, cyclists and horse riders. The route of the trail runs from Bakewell to a little way beyond the old Miller’s Dale Station, passing through several tunnels illuminated by solar-powered lights. It crosses the famous viaduct below Monsal Head, a popular viewpoint before taking a high-level route above the aptly named Water-cum-Jolly Dale, making this walk one of the easiest, yet most attractive walks in the Peak District. There are several pubs and two cafes along the trail, as well as in Bakewell, the Peak District’s ever popular visitor destination. One of its main attractions is the local delicacy called the Bakewell Pudding. An old cottage close to the town centre is well
Walk Derbyshire – Around Winster
Winster is a haphazard cluster of seventeenth and eighteenth- century houses linked by narrow hillside alleys or ginnels as they are known locally. They sit in a pattern which suited the lead miners and their families in the hey-day of this now extinguished Peak District industry. The walk follows paths once trodden by miners who, usually in small groups, delved beneath the surrounding heights. Often run on a part-time basis, the miners would be satisfied with a daily input of enough ore to fill their wes’kit (waistcoat) pockets. Small abandoned stone barns, used as stores by these miners, still dot the surrounding fields. At the side of the nearby B5056 Cromford/Bakewell road, close to its junction with the Newhaven road, a communal lead store has been preserved as an interpretive feature. A little way down the road from it, the Miners’ Standard pub takes its name from the standard dish used to measure quantities of ore. In contrast with this small-time mining activity, the last and most productive lead mine in Derbyshire was nearby at Mill Close. It was still in operation until 1939 when flooding led to its abandonment. The central feature of Winster is a two-storied, late seventeenth-century Market Hall. Standing opposite the co-operatively run village store and post office, it was the first National Trust property in Derbyshire. Winster has its own team of Morris Dancers, and every Shrovetide the women and children of the village hold pancake races along the main street. Parking is difficult in the centre of Winster, but can usually be found roadside to the west (Elton) side of the church, or at a dedicated car park above the village near the Miners’ Standard. The Matlock to Bakewell via Elton bus runs through Winster (but not on a Sunday). The Walk : Walk up the side street away from the Market Hall and go past the Bowling Green Inn. Turn left at Hope Cottage to follow a footpath signposted to Bonsall. Bear left with it, passing the public toilets and follow a narrow alley, head out of the village. Using stiles to keep to the grassy path, climb diagonally right across a series of fields. From fields disturbed by ancient lead mining activity, look to your left across the wooded valley. Stanton Moor is to the right and beyond it are the rocks of Robin Hood’s Stride, once known as Mock Beggar’s Hall from its apparent shape in poor light at dusk. Further on, the deep trough of Lathkill Dale cuts a swathe through the limestone plateau. Looking to your right again beyond Stanton Moor, the wide swathe of the Derwent Valley carves its way past Chatsworth and into the gritstone moors of the Dark Peak. Go through a stile in the wall on your right and turn left following a wall close by Luntor Rocks. Then, following waymarks, incline right, uphill. A fenced-off area below Luntor Rocks marks the site of an abandoned mine shaft. Most mines but not all, are blanked off with concrete beams, or by beehive cairns. Treat every mine shaft with respect for many have unstable sides. At the top of the rise, go diagonally left across the level field, heading for a stile in the top wall. Cross the stile and turn left to follow the moor road for about a quarter of a mile. By the weight restriction sign, turn left down the first of two adjacent tracks. Keep to your right of the farm house, and then bear left to walk round the lip of a quarry. Begin to go downhill across open fields, bearing right at a path junction marked by a yellow arrow. Head towards a ruined barn. Turn left and descend towards a dry dale running roughly left and right. Cross it and climb to the right towards the outskirts of Wensley village. Follow the narrow street leading into the village and main road. Cross and, keeping to the right of the cottage opposite, follow a signposted path indicating the way to Stanton Moor and Birchover. Aim ahead towards woodland. Cross two fields and then follow a forest track. Climb over a stile and turn left, uphill along a surfaced lane. Fork left at the lane end, to bear left along a woodland track. The factory seen through trees on the right of the lane stands on the site of Mill Close Mine, once the most productive lead mine in the Peak. Starting in the 1700s, it had a chequered career until the mid-nineteenth century when more efficient pumping equipment made it viable for the next hundred years or so. The factory began by extracting residual lead from the spoil heaps, but now specialises in extracting lead and other metals from worn-out batteries etc. The preserved surface remains of the Old Mill Close Mine are passed close by on the next section of the walk. Take the left fork at the finger post and walk down into the valley bottom and bear right. The imposing tower of the Old Mill Close Mine winding house is to your right. A short diversion here is worthwhile, but do not follow the path in front of the winding house; return to the valley bottom path and turn right. Follow the path upstream through woodland. Bear left with the path in order to cross the stream and go over a stile. Using two old gate posts and stone stiles to indicate the way, go half-right then diagonally left uphill. Cross the stile at the valley head and turn right along the road back into Winster. Useful Information 5½ mile (9km), of easy/moderate walking on field paths. The path between Clough Wood and Winster has muddy sections after prolonged rain. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 scale Explorer Map, Sheet OL24: White Peak area. Parking: above the village near the Miners’ Standard, or roadside on the Elton road beyond the church. Public Transport: Hulleys 172 Matlock, Winster and Bakewell service runs at 38minutes past the hour
