Walk Derbyshire – A Walk Above Matlock
by Rambler I don’t think I have ever written about a walk where the instructions needed to mention street names, but as this walk involves the use of streets dating back to Matlock’s origins as a spa town, it will be helpful if I name the handful of them necessary, in order to reach the forests surrounding the eastern side of the town. Fortunately street walking will be at the minimum once the height gained by climbing Bank Road from the town centre is accomplished. The reason for all this climbing on pavements and a narrow side alley, or jitty, is due to long term parking currently being difficult around the town centre while the extensive flood prevention works are carried out on the river bank, beyond the road bridge near Crown Square. In the hey-day of Smedley’s Hydro (now Derbyshire County Council headquarters), trams hauled by an underground cable ran up and down Bank Road from Crown Square. Unfortunately present day traffic has made it impossible to have trams cluttering up the town centre, struggling for space with the never ending convoys of heavy vehicles carrying Derbyshire’s limestone to markets far and wide. Until Smedley had his brainwave, the great and good seemed to have managed quite well without the need for the likes of high pressure water sprayed all over their quaking bodies, but they did and flocked to Matlock in their droves, that was until the fashion died out around the mid 1940s. Fortunately the white elephant the building had become soon fulfilled a need for new county council headquarters away from overcrowded Derby. While the fashion for the water cure was at its height, Smedley became very rich and encouraged his senior employees to open smaller versions of his hydropathic establishment, rather like chickens around a mother hen. He also built Riber Castle that still dominates the townscape, despite its history of failure. The eastern hillside above Matlock and as far as the joining of Derwent and lower Wye Valleys was once renowned for plant nurseries, specialising in shrubs and the kind of plants that prefer acid soils, such as that found to the east of the Derwent Valley, especially above Darley Dale. There is even a rich ruby-flowered heather called Erica darleyensise that was developed by one of the hillside nurseries. Regrettably only one of those nurseries survived. Beyond County Offices, the walk has one last climb, directly up to the attractive housing estate accessed by Cavendish Road. Further on, the way is through established pine forested plantations along with mature mixed woodland which is soon left in order to drop down to the Sydnope section of Two Dales and where a woodland track winds its way towards the stone cottages and small farms bordering Boam Lane. A pleasant high level road walk with many views later descend, leading towards the need to cross a busy main road, the A6. Luckily this is brief and a short field track is joined, going under Peak Rail’s track and then onwards towards the river which together with the railway is followed all the way back into Matlock town Centre. THE WALK STEP BY STEP From Crown Square walk up steep Bank Road until you reach County Offices and the site of Smedley’s Hydropathic Institute as it was known in the days of the ‘water cure’. Turn left at the corner of the main building and follow Smedley Street, past the entrance to County Offices. Cross over the junction with Wellington Street corner marked by the attractive tower and residential property on the site of ‘Tinker’ Wright’s hardware store where you could buy such things as nails and screws in any quantity rather than coming away with the unwanted contents of whole packets. Cross over to the other side of the junction and walk on for about a hundred yards to reach a side turning to the right into Smith Street. Follow Smith Street uphill to its junction with Jackson Road. Cross the double junction and go to the left along Jackson Tor Road, following it to its end and then turn right on to a steeply inclined jitty – the local word for an alley. Leave the narrow jitty at the top where it passes a children’s play area in order to join Cavendish Road. Turn left along this road, walking past houses on your right and the local sports ground on your left. Where the road turns sharply to the right, continue forwards along a narrow tree lined track winding steadily uphill and into mature woodland. When the track begins to bear right, continue along it, climbing steadily right, uphill and beginning to bear left, scrambling upwards as far as the remains of an old stone boundary wall. Turn left at the wall and walk on, joining a level grassy path running between mature mixed woodland on your left and a plantation of pines on the right. At the end of the path turn right and then go diagonally left to cross a grassy fire break. Currently work is in progress to remove fully grown trees destined to be converted into woodchip used for building purposes. Look out for notices advising current operations and listen out for machinery and loaded trucks. Continue into pinewood and follow a path through the dense woodland. Where the woodland path reaches a forestry track, turn left and follow it for about a quarter of a mile, turning right and then left at a track junction after another quarter of a mile. Follow this section of track for around half a mile, past open fields grazed by sheep on your left. Continue until the track bears right opposite the boundary of a private garden developed in an abandoned gritstone quarry. From the middle of May, the wild garden is filled with the pinks and reds of rhododendrons. About a hundred yards beyond the turning, go to the left following the garden boundary, along a rough path winding between
Derbyshire Walk – An Alpine-style walk around Matlock Bath
On a sunny weekend today’s Matlock Bath is popular with middle-aged motorcyclists whose expensive mounts line the riverside frontage. They are just the modern manifestation of the visitors who come to enjoy the local scenery. As far back as the Georgian era, people have come to admire the unique setting of this small village: at first it was only visited by those who could afford the expense of horse-drawn transport, but when the railway came, and with it cheaper transport, it opened up the place for those with lighter purses. Since then the coming of the motor car has spread the net and people flock from all over the north Midlands for a day out in this mini-holiday resort. Early visitors likened Matlock Bath to an alpine resort, and that cannot be far from the truth. Romantic poet Lord Byron described Matlock Bath as; ‘There are places in Derbyshire rivalling Switzerland and Greece’. A bit far fetched, but with the vertical limestone crag of High Tor and its continuing ridge opposite the main part of the village, the aspect is not far removed from some alpine village – admittedly not quite as high, but nevertheless the looks are there. The ambience is continued with the cable car up to the Heights of Abraham and its terraced woodland walks. There’s even a tiny chapel, St John’s, about half way between Matlock and Matlock Bath that could easily be mistaken for a miniature Alpine Schloss. Probably the closest to a truly alpine footpath is the path along what is known as ‘Giddy Edge’. This path, complete with a metal handrail crosses the upper face of High Tor and can truly be compared – again, in a small way, to Via Ferrate the iron ladders that criss-cross the Dolomites and other limestone mountains of the Alps. This walk uses many of the high-level and riverside paths that wander high and low around the village. Starting at Matlock Bath railway station the walk climbs up the side of High Tor into the outskirts of Snitterton. This linear satellite village follows what was once the only road south from Matlock until the line of the A6 was developed. Entering woodland, the path climbs to the summit of High Tor, where the exciting prospect of the Giddy Edge path begins its descent back into Matlock Bath. Here if you want, a truly alpine extension to the walk can be made by taking the cable car to the top of the Heights of Abraham and enjoy its woodland walks. (Visit www.heightsofabraham.com for opening times) Continuing towards the riverside section of the walk, a footpath leaving the car park climbs to the ridge-top continuation of High Tor, before dropping down to the river by a series of well-laid steps. A left turn at the river will follow the wooded path called ‘Lovers’ Walk’ until it reaches a modern footbridge. Over this are the Riverside Gardens and beyond is the Pavilion, the restored replica of an alpine Kursall, or spa. The fascinating Peak District Lead Mining Museum is here together with a friendly café dispensing home-made food. There are many alternatives for refreshments along the roadside, ranging from fish and chips to several excellent restaurants and pubs. A WORD OF CAUTION While the Giddy Edge section of the walk has a well-placed handrail, it should be approached with great care and certainly not in wet or icy conditions. For anyone not wishing to use the Giddy Edge path, there is an alternative route bearing left at the start of the edge path which crosses the highest point of High Tor. Children and dogs must be under close scrutiny at all times. The Walk Take the side road parallel to both the river and railway line, away from the car park. Turn right and go under the railway, uphill towards the entrance to the bottom station of the Heights of Abraham cable car. Do not bear left to the cable car entrance, but continue ahead and through a squeezer stile next to a metal gate. Climb the roughly surfaced track until it reaches an unmade road lined with houses. Turn left on this road and go through a gate opening on to a surfaced track leading into woodland. The track climbs steadily, bearing right in its upper reaches. Where the track on leaving the trees bears left, continue ahead until it peters out. (The track going left is heading for a radio mast). The woodland is part of the High Tor Recreation Grounds. There are several roofless old mines around the summit, often bearing fanciful names such as ‘Fern Cave’ or ‘Roman Cave’, but none are quite so ancient. It was once possible to enter the mines for self-exploration, but an over-cautious council has closed them off on Health and Safety grounds. There was once a café on the summit of High Tor, but it mysteriously burned down within a few days of its closure. Swing round to the left away from the mast compound and make for the summit of High Tor to admire the view. N.B. There is no barrier at the summit, so keep well away from the edge – there is a 190 foot drop straight down the tor face. Bear left away from the summit rocks and follow the signpost towards Giddy Edge, making use of the iron handrails as necessary. N.B. If it’s icy, raining or if you do not have a head for heights, bear left away from the start of the Giddy Edge path and go over the highest point of High Tor. This path joins the Giddy Edge path on the far side of the summit. Continue on the edge path, using a well-placed seat for a rest along the way. At the far end, join a rough path zig-zagging steeply downhill through mature woodland. Go to the left and then right around the perimeter fence of the cable car. Go under the railway bridge and turn left on to
