Restaurant Review – Denby Lodge

It was a mid-week evening and Susan and myself were out to sample the new menu at the Denby lodge. There’s something homely and relaxed about the Denby Lodge that I can’t quite put my finger on. It feels familiar. The decor helps with its modern, soft palette and mix and match furniture. The staff are friendly and attentive. And the recognisable dishes, on the diverse menus, have home cooked food written all over them. Perhaps the secret is a combination of all of the above. The Denby Lodge was known as a steakhouse and that reputation continues to this day. They serve meat that has been hung for 28 days and is sourced from farms in Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire. However we chose to ignore the extensive beef steak ‘grill’ selection and instead opted for two meals from the ‘main course’. Susan had the chicken in a creamy leak and Stilton sauce and I selected the lamb rump in a redcurrant gravy; quite the best lamb I have had in a while. My char grilled lamb was presented on the plate with a jug of glossy red current and red wine jus and accompanied by a dish of fresh and tender vegetables. The lamb was cooked just how I like it. It was not overcooked and had just a hint of pink when cut into. It had a slender outer layer of fat that was well grilled and crispy. The fat rendered down and had kept the meat moist and tender, adding to the flavour. The jus had a hint of sweetness from the red currants and a depth of flavour and acidity from the red wine. A perfect balance to the tender rump. Susan had chosen the chicken breast in a leek and Stilton cream sauce. The chicken breast had been poached and was lean, tender, juicy and flavourful. The cream sauce was a careful balance of flavours. The yeasty sweetness and a salty taste of the creamy cheese didn’t overpower the tender leeks but was a perfect counter point to the subtle chicken.  Both our dishes of vegetables were identical. Boiled new potatoes, peas and carrots that still had a little bit of bite and a serving of flavourful, sweet, red cabbage that had not lost its colour. And then came the sweet; what a beauty. I’m not a fan of very sweet puddings and the lemon tart appealed to me. A thin pastry case filled with sharp, not too sweet lemon with a hint of a burnt sugar crust came with a dish of vanilla ice cream. Quite excellent.  The main menu, that we made our selection from, also has a grill section, burgers and salad. There is also a childrens section, Sunday roast, lite bite and take-out menus. From lunch time till late afternoon there’s a ‘Two Meals for £14’ menu. The bar has an excellent array of cask ales including Marston’s Pedigree and local beers. It’s a popular destination. Whether it’s a table for two or a large party I’d recommend a table reservations for the evenings, particularly at the weekend. There’s also plenty of outdoor seating in the terraced beer garden for those warm summer days and nights. We found the Denby Lodge an enjoyable and relaxing place for a drink and a meal. It has a large, well lit car park and is in the centre of Denby Village, on Church Street. 00

Restaurant Review – An Evening of Tapas at The Denby Lodge

I’ve never been to mainland Spain although I once took a winter break on Lanzorote, the northernmost part of the Canary Islands. That was over 47 years ago. We flew from a misty, sub-zero Manchester on New Year’s Day, before it was a Bank Holiday in England, on a Freddie Laker Airways flight; landing at Arrecife in a balmy 21˚ of brilliant sunshine. In those days there was just a handful of hotels on the island and one tarmacked road. One of my memories is of the tapas bar at the Mirador del Rio at the north of the island and the incredible vista across the tiny strait of El Rio (so narrow it’s just called the river) to the islands of the Chinijo Archipelago. I remember the stunning view but I don’t remember the tapas. So when an opportunity arose to sample tapas again, closer to home, myself and Susan jumped at the chance. The venue was the recently refurbished Denby Lodge, Denby Village, Derbyshire. Famous for their steaks they have added tapas to the main menu. Traditionally, a tapa is a small snack served as you stand at a crowded bar but at the Denby Lodge it’s been elevated to a dining experience. Although we visited the pub on a busy Friday evening there was no problem parking in the large and well lit car park. The double doors of The Denby Lodge lead in to a large and relaxing lounge bar. It was busy but not crowded. The layout of the bar guides your eye to the entrance of the spacious restaurant area. We made our way over to it, introduced ourselves and were shown to a quiet table. The seating in the restaurant is flexible; we had a table for 2 and around us were tables for 4, a party of 6 and a birthday party of 12. The pub has recently launched a brand new menu with a wide range of new dishes including, for the first time, a tapas selection; with 15 dishes to choose from. We decided to follow the suggestion on the menu and order 3 dishes each but asked them to stagger their arrival so that we could use the first 2 as our starter. Susan chose the mussels with chilli and chorizo and I ordered the seafood stew. The stew was pieces of fresh cod and salmon, shellfish and prawns in a white wine, cream and garlic sauce. The fish was cooked perfectly and the light sauce didn’t over power the delicate flavours. The mussels with chorizo was again a perfect balance of spices and succulent shellfish. There was just a hint of chilli in the tomato and chorizo sauce. The main event was 4 dishes that we could share: Portuguese baked egg, cauliflower bites with sweet chilli jam, calamari rings and halloumi fries. It’s a colourful spectacle to see your table laden with all 4 dishes and with so many inviting aromas it makes you want to tuck in. We both sampled the halloumi fries first. The fried cheese takes on a crisp coat but has a soft, melting centre. We very quickly cleared the plate. The cauliflower bites were fresh, deep fried florets coated in a crispy batter. If you love fritters you’ll love this tender, white vegetable dipped in the sweet chilli jam. The crunchy coated calamari rings were tender and served on a bed of salad. The Portuguese baked egg dish is a lightly cooked egg sitting in the middle of a bed of spiced tomato and red onion topped by sliced chorizo and served in a hot, metal skillet. Susan sipped a glass of chilled, white wine and I drank a cold lager as we shared our meal and chatted the evening away. The restaurant has a lively but relaxed atmosphere and the ever attentive staff, who persuaded us to finish with a shared dark and squidgy chocolate torte, leave you wanting for nothing. Our thanks go to Sally, Ben and their staff for creating an evening where we could feel comfortable; take our time and chat while enjoying a very relaxed meal with a difference. 00

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