Restaurant Review – The New Bath Hotel, Matlock
The New Bath Hotel and Spa, with its fine Georgian façade, has always struck an impressive pose, standing for over 250 years as a sentinel at the southern entrance to Matlock Bath. It has recently undergone a major refurbishment and from the moment Susan and I walked into the light and open main entrance the care and thoughtful styling was evident. This is a little bit of Knightsbridge on the edge of The Peak. New Executive Head Chef John Shuttleworth has instigated a tasting menu with a carefully selected wine pairing and we were eager to experience the evening. John is a local lad and after graduating from High Peak College in Buxton, started his professional career in the USA. He returned to England and worked in several Michelin starred establishments before taking up a position for 8 years in South Africa at a premium winery with a highly acclaimed restaurant. He and his wife returned to the UK and took up appointments at the New Bath Hotel and Spa. The hotel’s Artistry restaurant occupies the south east corner of the grade 11 listed building and is the setting for their 6 course tasting menu. Decorated in a light contemporary style and retaining many of its original features this spacious, elegant room has the ability to both relax and make you feel like someone special. The view from the restaurant’s large bay window is of the magnificent High Tor. The poet Byron was fascinated with this landscape’s rugged, harsh beauty and F C Mutton, the author of the 1939 Penguin County Guide to Derbyshire, suggests that High Tor in Matlock Bath might well be the “loveliest crag in the whole of England”. After being treated to a couple of delicate hors d’oeuvres, beautifully described by our waitress for the evening; Andrea, our wine guide, related some brief tasting notes about the glass of Chateau d’Aydie fresh, dry white wine we were drinking and a few facts about the producer. This was how the evening was to progress. Each course was accompanied by a different wine and with each wine we were given suggestions of what tastes to expect and how it had been chosen to accompany the various dishes. Andrea also related a potted history of some of the wine producers. Before the first course, which was duck, we nibbled on a warm bread roll with creamy, thyme butter. The first plate consisted of a pressing of duck liver parfait and home cured goose ham. These are strong, rich, earthy flavours and the Chateau d’Aydie dry white was the perfect accompaniment. Before the second plate we were presented with ‘a bit of fun’ an amuse bouche of thick, creamy vichyssoise topped with a thin slice of fried potato and lurking, hidden at the bottom of the dish a soft boiled quails egg. The next dish was pan roast langoustine, a ballotine of rabbit, nettle purée and a shard of salsify all brought together with a reduced white wine sauce. These are all delicate flavours and the 2016 Bogle Vineyards Viognier was an ideal pairing; floral, tropical with a hint of vanilla. The third dish was tortellini filled with a pesto sauce that erupted in your mouth. It was dressed with a roasted pine nut crumb and topped with parmesan crisps. With the pasta we sipped a Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon from Hunter Valley, New South Wales: fresh tasting with ripe citrus flavours. Once more the cutlery changed and into another stylish, hand blown crystal glass was poured a bright ruby full bodied red wine: Humberto Canale – Seleccion de la Familla Cabernet Franc. The dark red fruit flavours of this wine had been selected to accompany the tender venison loin; with a hint of barbeque charring, a selection of vibrant greens, coffee and celeriac purée and a chocolate scented jus. The cheese course came in the form of a Mull of Kintyre cheese soufflé, rhubarb 3 ways; one a chutney and, scattered over it, a walnut crumble. A new world, slightly oaked, dark red Pinot Noir complemented the distinctive cheese and rhubarb flavours. Before the citrus, as the final course is called, we enjoyed pre-dessert amuse bouche. This time the wine was a complete change of pace: a Passito di Noto; a sweet, white Sicilian wine made from one of the oldest vines in the world: Moscato Bianco. The wine was the perfect foil for the sharp flavours of the white chocolate and lemon cheesecake and the sorbet, crumb and gel made from blood orange, calamansi and limes. Two and a half hours after taking our seats in the Artistry we completed the tasting with 2 delicate petit fours: a pistachio and dark chocolate and concentrated red berry jelly. John has designed a menu to reflect his love for the area, its fine produce and his classical training with influences from his experiences and travels. The six-course tasting menu is relaxed, yet well thought out; it provides variety, fun and an education. These are balanced dishes of flavour and texture with wine pairing that leave me speechless with admiration. This is a great tasting menu, you won’t be stuffed, just pleasantly full and take away the memory of an evening of fine food, wine and theatre. 00
Restaurant Review – The Peacock at Rowsley
As we crossed the threshold I blushed a little as I suddenly recalled that my last visit to The Peacock at Rowsley, some years ago admittedly, was with a previous boyfriend who had impeccable taste and was the owner of a small hotel on Jersey. This visit was on a very wet April evening with my lovely husband, and, as we were shown into the bar where a fire roared in the grate, I felt the same sense of history in this beautiful old hotel. Situated on the A6 through Rowsley, The Peacock Hotel is a grade II listed former manor house built in 1652, and as part of the Haddon Estate it is presently owned by Lord and Lady Edward Manners. Dan Smith, a Michelin trained chef, has for the last 10 years with his team earned The Peacock a place in the top 10% of restaurants in the country with 3 AA Rosettes. Assistant manager Katie welcomed us and showed us into the bar which is like stepping back in time with its heavily leaded stone mullion windows and uneven flagged floors. Serving both a bar and à la carte menu, we enjoyed a pre-dinner drink while we made our menu choices and began to unwind after a challenging day. Here too we were served an ‘amuse bouché’ of roast butternut squash and blue cheese dressed with truffle oil, this was rich and intense in flavour with a side of beef tartare and pickled cucumber which really awoke the taste buds. Shown into the dining room by Oliver, the food and beverage manager, we were seated under the watchful eyes of Lord Robert Manners (the portrait of course), who was killed April 12 1782. As the room filled there was friendly chatter among some of the resident guests making a very convivial atmosphere. My starter of hand picked crab was mixed with delicate pink beetroot cured salmon with a little heat added by the horseradish, a classic accompaniment. My husbands’ spinach ravioli was soft and silky, filled with the soft yolk of an egg, with sweet little peas it sat on a butter and chive sauce. From a well-balanced selection of main dishes I chose the Goosnargh chicken, run through with wild garlic and with a crisp skin, it was beautifully moist. Circled by buttery leeks and morels it was served with a side of an individual chicken pie piped with soft potato. The soft texture of the morels against the chicken was delicious. The flavour of my husbands beef fillet and the rich beef cheek made him smile, it just fell apart. It was served with charred artichoke, spring cabbage and miso. A light and fresh citrus Greek yogurt and sorbet was served pre dessert as a palette cleanser. As well as a dessert menu there was also my choice, a ‘Tart of the day’ which was a lemon tart with a light, thin, buttery pastry shell and beautifully sharp lemon filling it had a thin brittle caramel top. The rhubarb and fromage frais dessert served for my husband was both a work of art visually and had a great balance of texture and flavours, I just couldn’t resist sneaking a taste. We took our coffee and delicate, handmade petits fours in the lounge, a quiet and relaxing area. We had enjoyed a really outstanding meal, beautifully prepared by a true artist, with flavours balanced with skill and care, using only the finest ingredients. The staff were both attentive but discreet, most of them having worked here for the last ten years creating a seamless team and well deserved fine reputation. Our evening was truly memorable in every respect, and it is abundantly obvious why The Peacock at Rowsley sits comfortably amongst our finest hotels. For reservations contact 01629 733518 or email reception@thepeacockatrowsley.com 00
Restaurant Review – Santo’s Higham Farm
When was the last time you visited Santo’s at Higham Farm? I expect for many of you reading this it has been a little while, but please take a fresh look as Santo’s continues its heavy investment into refurbishing this beautifully positioned hotel. The latest Santo’s investment is in the kitchens bringing them right up to date with a refurbishment in excess of £130,000 with state of the art equipment, all adding to the efficiency and enabling the chef to spend time to beautifully create new and exciting dishes. Ray, the head chef, has known Santo for 26 years. As a 16 year old he worked with Santo and when Santo came to Higham Farm he asked Ray to join him. Through the years Ray progressed to the position of head chef. Ray left Higham to gain more knowledge and returned two years ago. Some of the current staff Ray has in his brigade have been at Santo’s over 15 years. The emphasis is very much on fresh local produce, with meat from local award winning butcher Owen Taylor and the vegetables sourced locally. Their aim is to produce everything in their own kitchen, from their beautiful selection of home made fresh breads baked daily, right down to churning their own butter! The cheese bread and wholemeal Stilton were a particular hit. Santo’s aim to cater for everyone. The early bird Monday Pizza menu is perfect for a night out with the family – with pizzas from £6.00, and the Sports Bar menu offers more traditional bar food. We were there to sample the new A la Carte Spring menu. This was put together over the last few weeks with input from all the chefs, and was tasted by the waiting staff to tweak the combinations and flavours. Already they are starting on their Summer menu to come up with new ideas and flavours! We went along to sample all the new spring menu and to be fair every dish was fantastic! For starter my personal favourite was ricotta ravioli, filled with simple basil, pepper and ricotta. It was served in a spring vegetable consommé, and drizzled with Scotch bonnet chilli oil which gave it a very subtle kick without being over powering. The fois gras is also a must, served with a truffle brioche with a caramelised top which gave it a little crunch and sweetness; Morel mushrooms and gooseberry relish accompanied this. My partner sampled the mackerel, which came with stripes of pickled cucumber and a touch of horseradish snow that was more like a sorbet that added an inspirational touch fusing the cucumber and mackerel together . The main course that stood out for me was the smoked corn fed chicken breast with confit potato, black garlic purée with roasted garlic, Iceberg lettuce and a butter sauce. The vegetarian option is also a little different – sautéed gem lettuce and arancini, one arancini is filled with asparagus and the other with crispy hen’s egg yolk served with feta cheese and confit tomatoes. A clear winner in my partners opinion was the 12 hour spiced belly pork with saag aloo, tikka foam and served with mini black pepper poppadums, put simply a deconstructed pork curry. The belly pork just melted away, and with flavours of Asia it was a great combination and one my partner highly recommends. If possible make room for a dessert. The lemon meringue with all butter puff pastry and lemon curd is a perfect sweet but sharp dessert with to finish your meal. The aerated chocolate and popcorn ice cream with salted caramel and peanut brittle honeycomb is fantastic too if you have a sweet tooth. Each dish is exquisitely presented – showing the care and detail they put into each component. If Santo and Roma, the hotel manager, were out to impress, then I can honestly say they’ve succeeded. The food excelled, the staff were trained to silver service level; friendly and helpful. Santo’s at Higham Farm is truly on the ‘foodies’ map , whether you’re looking for a meal to help you through the working week, some where to take the family, a quiet meal for two or a special occasion celebration. With ample parking and reasonable prices, their new spring menu fired our imagination and we know it will yours too. 00
Eating Out – The Dog Inn, Pentrich
Many years ago, before man had walked on the moon or The Beatles had got together, one of the simple highlights of a warm summer Sunday evening was to walk with my brother and our parents to The Dog at Pentrich. Our route was via Lowes Hill, Hammersmith, Asher Fields (no A38 in those days) and in to the village. The stroll was timed to put us outside The Dog at precisely 7pm; the time local licensing laws permitted public houses to open on Sunday evenings. Too young to enter the pub, me and my brother would sit outside on a low wall, bottle of Vimto in one hand and a bag of crisps in the other. Our most recent evening visit to the Dog Inn was not going to be for Vimto and crisps but to discover what the new chef, Adam, was offering on the completely re-styled menu. The Dog Inn has changed dramatically over the years; it’s larger; the main extension houses the dining area and has a contemporary interior but still retains many of its period features. It also boasts a wood-burning stove. A welcome site on a cold January night. Jane who, from the start of the New Year, has taken over running the front of house met us. This is a family affair; Jane along with her husband Graham run the bar and restaurant and Chef Adam is their son. Adam has worked in several well-known local restaurants and, until returning to Pentrich, was head chef at one of Sheffield’s top eateries. Some things change for the better and it was a delight to see the array of gins that are now on offer from ‘Bathtub’ through to ‘Rhubarb and Ginger’. Sue ordered a G&T made with the latter. It was served in a long stemmed copa glass which is shaped to enhance the botanicals in the gin. And some things don’t change; I ordered a pint of good old-fashioned Bass and it didn’t fail to delight. We sat and chatted in the cosy bar till our table was ready. Sue started with the soup of the day; a silky, smooth comforting leek and potato with house-baked focaccia; a pillow of soft dough laced through with olive oil infused sundried tomatoes. I chose the salt and chilli squid with a toasted sesame Asian style ketchup. Adam had made a change to the menu and the salad part of the dish was mostly fine strands of mooli. This cool, mild radish provided a counterpoint to the tempura batter on the squid and the hint of mild chilli in the ketchup. This is an ever-evolving menu as I witnessed when my main arrived with spinach; a welcome addition to the rich flavour of the slow cooked marinated blade of beef and the refreshing savoury note of the smooth celeriac fondant. Set on a bed of tangy white onion purée it was accompanied by sliced chestnut mushrooms and just the right amount of deep, dark real ale sauce. A salty note was provided by the crispy cooked pancetta. The plating was thoughtfully balanced and presented a visual feast. For her main Sue chose an 8oz rump steak with a peppercorn and whisky sauce; if there is a grill section to any menu it will always be her first choice. All the steaks are served with, chunky chips, Portobello mushroom, confit tomato, beer battered onion rings and a watercress salad. The steak was grilled beautifully; just the right amount of charring on the outside and still pink on the inside. Throughout the meal we never reached for any extra seasoning. After our unhurried starter and main we had a little room left for desserts; Sue chose the ice cream and I chose the lemon parfait. The ice cream was a trio of flavours, decorated with shards of French meringue, and served with raspberries, blueberries and a buttery, homemade shortbread biscuit. The parfait was served with sherbet, lemon curd and toasted almonds and again decorated with the French meringue. The Dog has a varied and quite extensive bar snacks and meals menu, served till 3pm in the afternoon and 9pm in the evening, which we will be returning to try. There are around 30 wines to choose from ranging from easily affordable whites and reds to some special occasion champagnes. But I still have a soft spot for those warm summer evenings of the late 1950s with a bottle of Vimto. 00
