Restaurant Review – Jeera, Crich
An evening of quality Bangladeshi cuisine. “Whoa, slow down Midge you’re going far too fast, you’ll have to explain that to me again” When people are passionate about what they do, it’s really hard for them not to try to tell you everything all at once. And all in one breath. If I was to put together a restaurant menu with dishes, some traditional, some handed down by eminent chefs and some of my own creations, I think I would be eager to tell you about them as I presented them at the table. Well Midge Mannan at Jeera, on Crich Market Place is of that ilk. He’s so proud of his heritage as understudy, from the age of fifteen, to Mr Rahman who, in my opinion was one of Derbyshire’s best at delivering quality Bangladeshi cuisine. Sadly he passed away about ten years ago but what he taught Midge (nephew of Mr Rahman) still lives on in passion for product, desire to create flavours and the need to please discerning diners. In contrast, the week before we ate at a restaurant whereby the waitress brought our starters, plonked them down with basically a “that’s what you ordered and now you’ve got attitude”. Not good enough. Midge in contrast whisked us through the content of dishes, how they were flavoured some of which not only were traditional dishes but also had a few twists of Spanish and Italian in them. When Midge had established what we liked and didn’t like, he shot off to the kitchen to explain to the chefs what he wanted to present us with. There was a good buzz in the restaurant which, being situated in the centre of Crich, attracts customers from far and wide. Crich Market Place is always busy and very much a travel to place, so if you enjoy something, you will go back for it again and that is the crux of Jeera’s customers and why at the weekend they can serve up to five hundred meals. Personally I prefer midweek eating, as places tend to be a little quieter and you get chance to chat and nail your exact meal, and also have the chance for Midge to explain what he’s prepared for you. It’s not been an easy road though. It takes time to build up a solid team and a good reputation with regular clientele and then hold onto them. I’ve sometimes felt that in the food industry restaurants generally get “one shot” at impressing us. Fail and we are off in search of pastures new. This was Midges chance to impress and boy did he do us proud when for a full three hours we tucked into some delicious food. “You’ll have to write down all we’ve had Midge because I’ll never remember it” I said. I was so busy enjoying it and talking to my dining companions Terry, and Mike. I’m not unaccustomed to this type of cuisine but I was surprised to discover some very tasty new dishes to add to my favourites list. The Lamb Bengal special, lamb cooked with green beans and eggs on top, was so succulent that the dish emptied at a rapid pace. I was worried that the Chicken naga (hot naga chillies cooked buna style) may be a little too spicy for me but no that was spot on and again proved a favourite. I was tipped off about this dish by Paul at Costcutter who said “Ask Midge to do it Desi style” We trusted Midge to just present us with a showcase of their food. So here’s how Midge presented and filled two tables for the four of us. Starters Fish tandoor, Naga wings, Chef’s mixed grill, Mushroom purée, ‘Character’ chickpea purée. Mains Chicken Jalali; a vibrantly colourful dish with yoghurt, mint and lemon. Lamb Karachi; sizzling authentic dish with onion and peppers. Zamora Goan special with Bangladeshi peppers; cooked dry and dressed with sliced potato. Lamb Bengal special; lamb cooked with green beans and topped with crispy edged fried eggs. Chicken naga; hot naga chillies cooked bhuna style. Extras Lemon rice, Pilau rice. Garlic and Coriander naan (cooked properly in a tandoor oven). Four of us couldn’t beat it. If you’d have seen how much delicious food was on our table you’d understand why. Here’s a comment from one of our dining friends; “The fish tandoori starter was succulent and beautifully presented. All the starters were complemented by puri bread. Zamora Goan was beautifully spiced without being too hot and the naan was deliciously fresh. Overall the chefs provided an excellent balanced meal. It was interesting to try authentic, regional Bangladeshi foods, as opposed to those adapted to the English palate.” Meet the team. Last but not least here is the team that can make you a great dining evening; Owners: Midge Mannan and Mislo Mannan Head Chef: Abul Kashem (trained by Mr Rahman). Tandoori Chef: Suruk Miah. Our thanks to you all for making us so welcome. Note: You will need to take your own alcohol but then again there is Costcutter next door! 00
Restaurant Review – The Hope & Anchor, Wirksworth
Standing proudly on the market place in the centre of Wirksworth is The Hope and Anchor, a grade two listed 17th century stone building. Closed in 2016 but now under new management and with around £100,000 spent on refurbishment, along with a new chef, The Hope and Anchor is now open for business. On their website they proudly proclaim that they are, “A good pub with real pub food”. Our visit, along with two long standing friends one Friday evening in mid July was a great opportunity to put that claim to the test. Occupying a prominent position in Wirksworth it was easy to let your mind slip back to the days in 1306 when the town was granted market status and would be jammed with colourful stalls and people plying their trades many of which are now lost. Over the years, with wealth generated by lead mining and stone quarrying, this market town came to be graced by some of the most lovely, historic, stone buildings. But now to our dining experience. We were welcomed by General Manager Jack, who showed us to our table in the large restaurant area, the rear of which is elevated. The late evening sun poured through the windows as we sat at a rustic table with plenty of space around us, it was so pleasant not to be squeezed in elbow to elbow with other diners. The décor here is contemporary with lovely muted shades, the walls have been partially clad with wood of various colours some featuring the imprint appropriately of an anchor. There are many nice rustic touches whilst the old building still retains many original features, which is quite fitting as it’s Rustic Inns who took over this pub in November 2017 and have worked tirelessly to put together a dining and drinking experience to suit current trends. Our waitress for the evening was Jersey who explained how much she enjoyed the food that the new chef was producing. Three of us ordered starters while one was saving herself for pudding! “It’s worth the wait” said Jersey. My starter was tomato bruschetta which consisted of three slices of rustic bread, tomato, chilli topped with torn mozzarella. A firm favourite of mine, not too overpowering and very clean tasting, a cracking start. Mike devoured his house pate infused with thyme, garlic and mushrooms, it was smooth and spread with ease on to the rustic bread. Generous triangles of salted butter and a homemade chutney accompanied it. Jane chose the battered prawns, dipped and fried in a very light tempura batter and served over a fresh salad, the pot of sweet chilli and lime dipping sauce perfectly added that touch of heat and sweetness. The farmers pie of the day was minced beef and onion which was encased in thin short crust pastry, and I chose the double cooked rustic chips. The pie was lovely and moist and was served with a boat of gravy too which was a bonus, the ‘skin on chips’ were very chunky and the buttered greens not over cooked. Mike’s ale battered cod was served on a wooden board and was huge, even for Mike who has a healthy appetite. Lockwoods mushy peas and sea salted double cooked rustic chips were served with this and a pot of homemade tartare sauce and wedge of lemon completed the dish. His determination to finish was testimony to how enjoyable it was. Julie tried the vegetarian curry which was quite hot and had a good variety of vegetables, her only comment was that she maybe missed a naan bread to go with it. Finally, Jane ordered the homemade lasagne, a slight twist on the usual with smoked bacon and red wine and tomato sauce added to the beef. This made for a very rich dish, but with a beautiful flavour, and the side salad was the freshest I’ve had anywhere. As predicted Mike and I passed on puddings, but Jane and Julie went for and enjoyed a lovely light and fresh raspberry mousse and a baked lemony cheesecake, both homemade and highly recommended. That really sums up the food here: locally sourced wherever possible, the chef has an eye for adding that extra something which lifts this good food just up another level. The presentation too is modern with delicate flower and micro leaf garnishes where appropriate. We had a great evening and there were many more dishes on the varied menu that we would have liked to try, and for those with not so large an appetite there is a ‘Lite bite’ menu available until 6pm. On Sundays there are traditional roasts alongside a reduced weekday menu. But, there’s still plenty there to tempt you at the Hope and Anchor. We all agreed that the Hope and Anchor is “A good pub, with real pub food, and a good collection of real ales. The music is pleasant and not too intruding, and they have a young group of staff that are friendly, relaxed and eager to please. It’s a great place to unwind at the end of the week. 00
Restaurant Review – The Dovecote, Morley Hayes
As the year drifts slowly in to Autumn the chill in the air indicates that it’s time to put away the short sleeve shirts and shorts and consign the thoughts of dining al fresco to next Summer. The longer nights need a cosy atmosphere, pleasant surroundings, attentive service and, of course, excellent food. One Saturday evening, in search of this quartet of goodies, we made our way to Morley Hayes. The hotel and golf complex is home to three restaurants, The Dovecote, Roosters, and The Spike Bar, offering a range of dining experiences from fine dining to informal bar snacks. Our destination was the Dovecote; a restaurant that has earned a reputation as one of the finest in Derbyshire. We were greeted with a warm welcome as we stepped in to the stylish, contemporary surroundings of the Dovecote’s bar and without any fuss our pre-dinner drinks order was taken and canapés served. These were a selection of green and black olives and 2 bite sized tomato shortbreads toped with cream cheese and diced black olives. Ideal savoury accompaniments to the first drinks of the evening. We relaxed in the bar, chatted, read through the menu and with a little advice from restaurant manager Simon, made our choices. The chefs use seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients to create the mouth-watering menu, so local that the Dexter ribeye is from a farm in the neighbouring village. Just as we finished our drinks our waitress appeared and showed us to our candlelit table in the restaurant. The Dovecote’s interior has been designed in such a way that it doesn’t hide the original structure but still creates a variety of spaces and, with the creative use of lighting and fabrics, a cosy atmosphere. As we waited we nibbled on a selection of warm breads. For her starter Susan chose the duck liver parfait with cherries and whole wheat crackers. The fruity black cherry cut through the rich, silky-smooth parfait and, along with the crisp texture of the cracker, it created a perfect first course. I selected the cep mushroom velouté. The velouté was rich with mushroom flavour. It was served with pickled mushrooms and egg yoke on a lightly grilled piece of sour dough. This added a sweet note and a crisp texture in contrast to the earthy, smooth bowl of tasty mushrooms. Our mains arrived picture perfect. Susan’s was the dry aged duck breast which she’d asked to be served just a little pink. It was soft and perfectly pink. The sliced duck was served with crispy edged panhaggerty potatoes and French beans that had retained all their flavour and still had a little ‘snap’. A revelation was the elderberry sauce. It enhanced the duck with its floral taste; it was not too sweet and not too fruity. My main was the rare breed belly pork with sweetcorn, roasted shallots and char grilled baby leeks. This was served with a generous slice of Spanish morcilla sausage. The shallots and leeks complimented the melt in the mouth pork which had the ‘just right’ balance of meat to fat ratio. Susan chose a pleasant Sauvignon Blanc to go with her meal and I opted for a glass of Malbec; with its inky dark colour and robust tannins it was an ideal partner to the pork. We decided to end the evening with a dessert each. For Susan it was the Dovecote’s baba. A calvados soaked yeast cake; topped with fresh black berries and a quenelle of fruity ice cream. The treacle tart was my choice. An incredibly thin, crisp pastry case was filled with a toffee flavoured, treacle mixture that only attained its full sweetness when it warmed and hit the back of my mouth. A pudding from my childhood served with clotted cream. We thanked Simon and his staff for their faultless, professional service throughout the evening and made our way out to the well lit car park. It was a mild September evening and I wondered if perhaps Summer hadn’t quite said ‘goodbye’ to 2018. The Dovecote deserves its fine dining status. Within easy reach of Derby and Nottingham and set in the Derbyshire countryside with delightful views over the golf course, the restaurant is ideal for family celebrations or enjoying a quiet candle-lit meal for two. With set lunch and dinner menus along with an a la carte menu, you’ll be spoilt for choice. It also offers indulgent afternoon teas and champagne breakfasts for that special celebration. +10
Restaurant Review – The New Bath Hotel, Matlock
The New Bath Hotel and Spa, with its fine Georgian façade, has always struck an impressive pose, standing for over 250 years as a sentinel at the southern entrance to Matlock Bath. It has recently undergone a major refurbishment and from the moment Susan and I walked into the light and open main entrance the care and thoughtful styling was evident. This is a little bit of Knightsbridge on the edge of The Peak. New Executive Head Chef John Shuttleworth has instigated a tasting menu with a carefully selected wine pairing and we were eager to experience the evening. John is a local lad and after graduating from High Peak College in Buxton, started his professional career in the USA. He returned to England and worked in several Michelin starred establishments before taking up a position for 8 years in South Africa at a premium winery with a highly acclaimed restaurant. He and his wife returned to the UK and took up appointments at the New Bath Hotel and Spa. The hotel’s Artistry restaurant occupies the south east corner of the grade 11 listed building and is the setting for their 6 course tasting menu. Decorated in a light contemporary style and retaining many of its original features this spacious, elegant room has the ability to both relax and make you feel like someone special. The view from the restaurant’s large bay window is of the magnificent High Tor. The poet Byron was fascinated with this landscape’s rugged, harsh beauty and F C Mutton, the author of the 1939 Penguin County Guide to Derbyshire, suggests that High Tor in Matlock Bath might well be the “loveliest crag in the whole of England”. After being treated to a couple of delicate hors d’oeuvres, beautifully described by our waitress for the evening; Andrea, our wine guide, related some brief tasting notes about the glass of Chateau d’Aydie fresh, dry white wine we were drinking and a few facts about the producer. This was how the evening was to progress. Each course was accompanied by a different wine and with each wine we were given suggestions of what tastes to expect and how it had been chosen to accompany the various dishes. Andrea also related a potted history of some of the wine producers. Before the first course, which was duck, we nibbled on a warm bread roll with creamy, thyme butter. The first plate consisted of a pressing of duck liver parfait and home cured goose ham. These are strong, rich, earthy flavours and the Chateau d’Aydie dry white was the perfect accompaniment. Before the second plate we were presented with ‘a bit of fun’ an amuse bouche of thick, creamy vichyssoise topped with a thin slice of fried potato and lurking, hidden at the bottom of the dish a soft boiled quails egg. The next dish was pan roast langoustine, a ballotine of rabbit, nettle purée and a shard of salsify all brought together with a reduced white wine sauce. These are all delicate flavours and the 2016 Bogle Vineyards Viognier was an ideal pairing; floral, tropical with a hint of vanilla. The third dish was tortellini filled with a pesto sauce that erupted in your mouth. It was dressed with a roasted pine nut crumb and topped with parmesan crisps. With the pasta we sipped a Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon from Hunter Valley, New South Wales: fresh tasting with ripe citrus flavours. Once more the cutlery changed and into another stylish, hand blown crystal glass was poured a bright ruby full bodied red wine: Humberto Canale – Seleccion de la Familla Cabernet Franc. The dark red fruit flavours of this wine had been selected to accompany the tender venison loin; with a hint of barbeque charring, a selection of vibrant greens, coffee and celeriac purée and a chocolate scented jus. The cheese course came in the form of a Mull of Kintyre cheese soufflé, rhubarb 3 ways; one a chutney and, scattered over it, a walnut crumble. A new world, slightly oaked, dark red Pinot Noir complemented the distinctive cheese and rhubarb flavours. Before the citrus, as the final course is called, we enjoyed pre-dessert amuse bouche. This time the wine was a complete change of pace: a Passito di Noto; a sweet, white Sicilian wine made from one of the oldest vines in the world: Moscato Bianco. The wine was the perfect foil for the sharp flavours of the white chocolate and lemon cheesecake and the sorbet, crumb and gel made from blood orange, calamansi and limes. Two and a half hours after taking our seats in the Artistry we completed the tasting with 2 delicate petit fours: a pistachio and dark chocolate and concentrated red berry jelly. John has designed a menu to reflect his love for the area, its fine produce and his classical training with influences from his experiences and travels. The six-course tasting menu is relaxed, yet well thought out; it provides variety, fun and an education. These are balanced dishes of flavour and texture with wine pairing that leave me speechless with admiration. This is a great tasting menu, you won’t be stuffed, just pleasantly full and take away the memory of an evening of fine food, wine and theatre. 00
