The Brecon Beacons
Possibly the Brecon Beacons is the least known mountainous national park in England and Wales, but as Brian Spencer discovered on a recent visit, it is easy to reach and the scenery is superb. The irregular oval of the Brecon Beacons National Park stretches from the long arrow-straight ridges of the eastern Black Mountains. Barren and wind-blown, they climb between Abergavenny and Hay-on-Wye, in sharp contrast to the more rounded hills of the western Black Mountains. Rising to 2906 feet high Pen y Van at its central point, the region is cut in two by the River Usk, one of South Wales’ major trout and salmon rivers. Resting on red sandstone and gritstone except for a large area of limestone towards the west, the mountains are deeply cut by narrow coal-bearing south running valleys beyond the southern boundary of the national park. High wild moorland stretches north between the A40 and A483, but this area, especially around Mynydd Eppynt is very much the preserve of the armed forces and tends to be out of bounds to the rest of us. Arriving by way of the A40, visitors reach the first and only major town in the Brecon Beacons National Park. Abergavenny is a busy market town, often referred to as the ‘Gateway to the Vale of Usk’. Surrounded by green hills, including the symmetrical cone of the Sugar Loaf, the town is almost like something out of a picture book. The castle of which little remains, was built on the site of a Roman fort. Originally erected by the conquering Normans, for centuries it was a bastion against the Welsh. Today, the ruins sit as an attractive background to an attractive small garden. The town is renowned for its selection of antique shops, and makes an ideal base for visitors to the Beacons South west from Abergavenny and high on the moors sheltering the first of the colliery valleys, Blaenavon is the home of the Big Pit Visitor Centre where you can go underground to experience what it was like to work far from the light of day. The pit in its hey-day was part of an industrial complex that included an ironworks. Traveling upstream following the Usk as it flows alongside the A40, the next place along the way is Crickhowell. The name of this attractive little market town is derived from the Iron Age fort on top of a hill to the north of the town; Craig Hywel (Howell’s Cairn) is set on the summit of 1481 foot high Table Mountain. The ancient stronghold protected the town from the north and is said to have been the home of 9th century King Hywel Dda, who laid down the first Welsh laws. People have lived in and around Crickhowell since Neolithic times, but its most memorable son was Sir George Everest, who as director general of the survey of India gave his name to the highest mountain in the world, even though he never saw it. The Abergavenny branch of the Monmouthshire Canal passes close by, following the contours of the Usk Valley. Built to carry limestone and iron ore to the industrial regions to the south, by bringing coal back it halved the cost of fuel for the inhabitants of the Vale of Usk. The canal has been restored and nowadays used by holidaymakers enjoying the sylvan tranquility of gentle travel. A side road leads north from Brecon, climbing along a narrow route once used by drovers slowly moving cattle and sheep to markets serving the industrial south. All that is left of this once essential activity is the Drovers’ Arms pub about half way between Brecon and Llanelwedd. Brecon (Aberhonddu) is a market town with a history going back to the 12th century, but it is its cathedral which holds most of the town’s history. Built in the 13th and 14th centuries, as the Priory of St John the Evangelist, it became Brecon Cathedral in 1923. A base for salmon fishing, it is also the home of the South Wales Borderers’ Regimental Museum, commemorating amongst other events the regiment’s epic stand at Rourke’s Drift during the Zulu War. The town uniquely also has a distillery making Welsh Whiskey (Chwisgi); if you want to try it you must buy a glass or two in a local pub, as there are no ‘free-taster’ trips on offer at this distillery! Although there are many reservoirs in valleys within the Brecon Beacons, there is only one true lake. Llangorse Lake (Llyn Syfadan) was created when the retreating ice sheet left behind a clay-lined hole. Today it is the haunt of sailing enthusiasts, anglers, bird watchers and walkers, but in prehistoric times, a group of people built their homes on the protection of a man-made island created by patiently piled up stones. Legend speaks of a town which, destroyed by an earthquake, now lies deep beneath the lake; the tolling of its church bells can still be heard, or so they say, when the water is rough. The A470 climbs away from Brecon, on its way to the coal mining valleys. In about five miles, a right turn in the tiny village of Libanus and you will come to the Brecon Beacons National Park Mountain Centre. Standing at 1100ft on the slopes of Mynydd Illtud, It covers almost every aspect of the 519 square miles of the national park. Offering excellent views of the surrounding hills, it is an ideal starting point for guided or self-led walks. More or less at the highest point of the A470, a footpath climbs steadily to the twin summits of Pen y Fan and Corn Du. These two mountains are the highest in the Brecon Beacons National Park, offering wide ranging views, especially to the north over the Vale of Usk. Although Pen y Fan is flat topped, Corn Du has a more pointed summit, the variance being caused by slightly differing strata. As a warning to anyone considering something foolhardy, such as wandering ill-equipped in mist
Tried & Tested – Clinique Fit
Life’s a marathon. Look good running it. Active beauty for an active lifestyle. Every day is jam-packed and full of surprises, look good no matter what you’re doing—whether that’s hiking or heading to Sunday brunch straight from yoga. Introducing CliniqueFit, a carefully curated line of athletic-inspired, high performance skin care and makeup that’s long-wearing and designed to fit seamlessly into your on-the-go lifestyle. Get that post-workout glow (without the workout), mascara that won’t run when you’re on a run…or running around town, and skin care that helps you keep your cool, even as your day heats up. These game-changing products feel as comfortable as they look, stay in place while you move and go wherever the day takes you. CliniqueFit helps you look as good as you feel—high-performance formulas for your highly active life. CliniqueFit Post-Workout Mattifying Moisturizer £26 A double action moisturizer that hydrates skin for up to 8 hours while keeping surface oil in check. This lightweight, oil-free gel formula provides a matte, shine-free finish leaving skin soft, comfortable and nourished. Talk about instant mattification. CliniqueFit is perfect for before, during and after your workout. Go ahead, put it to the sweat-test. CliniqueFit Workout 24-Hour Mascara £20 Separates, lengthens and curls lashes without flaking or clumping for a full 24 hours. The unique maneuverable brush has four faceted sides and a pointed tip to define each and every lash and deliver full, voluminous body from root to tip. Sweat and humidity resistant. Cold water proof, yet easily removed with warm water. CliniqueFit Workout Makeup SPF 40 £29.50 A refreshing, lightweight foundation that wears for a full 12 hours and provides broad spectrum protection with a blend of chemical and physical sunscreens. Moderate coverage immediately evens skin tone and conceals the appearance of pores, without causing breakouts. Simply shake and blend for a shine-free, natural matte finish that is both sweat and humidity resistant. Ideal for oilier skin types. Available in four shades. POST-WORKOUT MATTIFYING MOISTURISER I’m not sure how this works but having just joined the gymn, I can honestly say it works well. I’ve also used it every day during this hot summer because it hydrates with none of the oiliness, it’s excellent. JP WORKOUT FOUNDATION This is not only great for workouts but perfect for hot days, it has a matt finish and lasts all day. It has a runny consistency so a little goes a long way. It gave a medium coverage but can be built up. With a SPF of 40 too its a great all round foundation. CB Workout 24-Hour Mascara This survived an hour long gym session followed by a high intensity spin class. Looked like I’d just put it on! Fab product that really does last. VP 00
Walk Derbyshire – Around Winster
Winster is a haphazard cluster of seventeenth and eighteenth- century houses linked by narrow hillside alleys or ginnels as they are known locally. They sit in a pattern which suited the lead miners and their families in the hey-day of this now extinguished Peak District industry. The walk follows paths once trodden by miners who, usually in small groups, delved beneath the surrounding heights. Often run on a part-time basis, the miners would be satisfied with a daily input of enough ore to fill their wes’kit (waistcoat) pockets. Small abandoned stone barns, used as stores by these miners, still dot the surrounding fields. At the side of the nearby B5056 Cromford/Bakewell road, close to its junction with the Newhaven road, a communal lead store has been preserved as an interpretive feature. A little way down the road from it, the Miners’ Standard pub takes its name from the standard dish used to measure quantities of ore. In contrast with this small-time mining activity, the last and most productive lead mine in Derbyshire was nearby at Mill Close. It was still in operation until 1939 when flooding led to its abandonment. The central feature of Winster is a two-storied, late seventeenth-century Market Hall. Standing opposite the co-operatively run village store and post office, it was the first National Trust property in Derbyshire. Winster has its own team of Morris Dancers, and every Shrovetide the women and children of the village hold pancake races along the main street. Parking is difficult in the centre of Winster, but can usually be found roadside to the west (Elton) side of the church, or at a dedicated car park above the village near the Miners’ Standard. The Matlock to Bakewell via Elton bus runs through Winster (but not on a Sunday). The Walk : Walk up the side street away from the Market Hall and go past the Bowling Green Inn. Turn left at Hope Cottage to follow a footpath signposted to Bonsall. Bear left with it, passing the public toilets and follow a narrow alley, head out of the village. Using stiles to keep to the grassy path, climb diagonally right across a series of fields. From fields disturbed by ancient lead mining activity, look to your left across the wooded valley. Stanton Moor is to the right and beyond it are the rocks of Robin Hood’s Stride, once known as Mock Beggar’s Hall from its apparent shape in poor light at dusk. Further on, the deep trough of Lathkill Dale cuts a swathe through the limestone plateau. Looking to your right again beyond Stanton Moor, the wide swathe of the Derwent Valley carves its way past Chatsworth and into the gritstone moors of the Dark Peak. Go through a stile in the wall on your right and turn left following a wall close by Luntor Rocks. Then, following waymarks, incline right, uphill. A fenced-off area below Luntor Rocks marks the site of an abandoned mine shaft. Most mines but not all, are blanked off with concrete beams, or by beehive cairns. Treat every mine shaft with respect for many have unstable sides. At the top of the rise, go diagonally left across the level field, heading for a stile in the top wall. Cross the stile and turn left to follow the moor road for about a quarter of a mile. By the weight restriction sign, turn left down the first of two adjacent tracks. Keep to your right of the farm house, and then bear left to walk round the lip of a quarry. Begin to go downhill across open fields, bearing right at a path junction marked by a yellow arrow. Head towards a ruined barn. Turn left and descend towards a dry dale running roughly left and right. Cross it and climb to the right towards the outskirts of Wensley village. Follow the narrow street leading into the village and main road. Cross and, keeping to the right of the cottage opposite, follow a signposted path indicating the way to Stanton Moor and Birchover. Aim ahead towards woodland. Cross two fields and then follow a forest track. Climb over a stile and turn left, uphill along a surfaced lane. Fork left at the lane end, to bear left along a woodland track. The factory seen through trees on the right of the lane stands on the site of Mill Close Mine, once the most productive lead mine in the Peak. Starting in the 1700s, it had a chequered career until the mid-nineteenth century when more efficient pumping equipment made it viable for the next hundred years or so. The factory began by extracting residual lead from the spoil heaps, but now specialises in extracting lead and other metals from worn-out batteries etc. The preserved surface remains of the Old Mill Close Mine are passed close by on the next section of the walk. Take the left fork at the finger post and walk down into the valley bottom and bear right. The imposing tower of the Old Mill Close Mine winding house is to your right. A short diversion here is worthwhile, but do not follow the path in front of the winding house; return to the valley bottom path and turn right. Follow the path upstream through woodland. Bear left with the path in order to cross the stream and go over a stile. Using two old gate posts and stone stiles to indicate the way, go half-right then diagonally left uphill. Cross the stile at the valley head and turn right along the road back into Winster. Useful Information 5½ mile (9km), of easy/moderate walking on field paths. The path between Clough Wood and Winster has muddy sections after prolonged rain. Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 scale Explorer Map, Sheet OL24: White Peak area. Parking: above the village near the Miners’ Standard, or roadside on the Elton road beyond the church. Public Transport: Hulleys 172 Matlock, Winster and Bakewell service runs at 38minutes past the hour
Taste Derbyshire – A Taste of North Derbyshire Yogurt
Driving along a single-track road, which meanders through the craggy hill and grassy dales of North Derbyshire, I am forced to perform an emergency stop. It’s not a good time. I am – thanks to a Sat Nav intent on herding me back to an A-road – twenty minutes late for an appointment with yogurt-maker Laura Howe. But what can I do? A hare has decided to hop slowly down the road in front of my car. Unlike me, he is clearly not late for an important date. When I finally reach my destination – Leisure Farm at Cressbrook – it’s well worth all the U-turns. Sitting at the kitchen table, with a restorative mug of tea in hand, my eyes keep straying to the window. Laura’s home is surrounded on all sides by never-ending fields on which husband Tom, and his family, keep their free-range dairy herd. The cows graze over 265 acres of land known as Litton Slack at the heart of Derbyshire’s White Peak. This is rambler country; luscious green meadows dissected only by centuries old limestone walls and sheer, breath-taking ascents falling into verdant valleys. It’s easy to see why Laura wanted to create a business inspired by the location. Never mind yogurt-makers – artists and poets would be moved by this countryside setting. “We were on a family holiday in Pembrokeshire when I realised how many people were running a rural business from their farms and homes and I wanted to do something like that,” Laura recalls. “My favourite was a tea shop in Bosherston Lilypond, which was in the front garden of a ladies’ cottage. She just did simple things like cream teas and cakes. I came away thinking I’d love to put that ethos into a business of my own.” Back in North Derbyshire, Laura began to think of products which could be made using milk from the family herd. The cows are mainly made up from pedigree Dairy Shorthorns; renown for producing creamy, protein-rich milk ideal for making dairy products like cheese and butter. “My first idea was to make ice-cream but one free from any preservatives and additives,” says Laura who launched her eponymous ‘Laura’s Dairy’ in December 2014. “I did a few trial-runs and got as far as looking at machinery. But a relative of ours spoke to the manager at the Chatsworth Estate Farm Shop. He told her the real gap in the market was for a yogurt produced in Derbyshire. I did a bit of research and realised farms which make yogurt from their own milk are few and far between. The nearest one is in Leicestershire.” For Laura, the suggestion was like lighting a touch-paper. Somehow – in-between juggling a job in the public sector in Matlock and looking after her three boys William (12), George (10), and four-year-old Ted – Laura turned every bit of spare time over to developing a ‘really good’ yogurt unsullied by superfluous ingredients. “My job involves a lot research but, even with the help of my sister-in-law, it still took two years to get up and running as we had to jump through so many hoops,” Laura recalls. “We also tested a lot of yogurt. I wonder what the staff in Waitrose at Buxton thought when we were buying £20-worth at a time?” Laura says the help she got from Derbyshire Dales District Council was invaluable. “They were able to give everything from practical advice on yogurt making to advising us on what funding was available,” Laura says. “Also, we got a massive amount of input from other food producers including a lady called Christine Ashby who has worked in the dairy industry for years.” Christine, an award-winning cheese-maker, teaches dairy and cheese courses at colleges and food schools. “We met thanks to Reaseheath College in Cheshire,” Laura explained. “I’d planned to do their yogurt-making course but they thought it might be too basic and gave me the tutor’s number. Christine ended up coming to teach at my home for two days.” Laura’s aim was to make a stripped down, ‘grown-up’ yogurt; low on sugar but naturally creamy due to the protein-rich milk. “When Christine said I’d have to put skimmed milk powder to control the amount of liquid whey, I wasn’t keen on adding anything,” she says. “But she was right. The small batches were fine but once we started making yogurt in bigger quantities, a puddle appeared on the top. It tasted fine, but the texture was too runny.” Christine’s advice also proved to be invaluable when it came to perfecting the products. “I think it helped that she wasn’t a fan of yogurt,” Laura smiled. “The honesty of her feed-back was fantastic. The first batch of natural yogurt wasn’t quite right and so I spent a few months tweaking it. Getting the consistency right was the biggest challenge. When I found out Christine was running a cheese-making course in Bakewell I took her another sample. She really liked it.” With the natural yogurt perfected, Laura decided to branch out on different flavours and roped in friends, family and colleagues as ‘tasters’. “I was very popular in the office as I’d often come in with samples,” she recalls. “I’m pleased to say they loved all the yogurts. In fact, I still get lots of orders from work. My colleague Barbara uses yogurt instead of butter in a delicious orange cake.” Talking to Laura, it’s clear why the yogurts have been attracting such glowing praise from customers. Her social media page is liberally sprinkled with positive reviews; the most common adjectives used are ‘creamy’ and ‘delicious’. Small wonder two of Laura’s yogurts scooped prestigious prizes at the Bakewell Show last summer. Her salted caramel – inspired by her children’s love of caramel desserts – was pipped by her own lemon curd which won a highly contested 1st prize. “I love homemade lemon curd but wasn’t sure about making my own as I am no baker,” Laura explained. “I approached
Images of Liverpool
The last time I was in Liverpool must have been soon after the Toxteth riots in 1981. The very name still conjures up the smell of burned-out cars that were still littering the streets. Since then the city has gone from strength to strength and I had difficulty in orientating myself around what were once streets lining the old docks. Instead of a place trying to come to terms with changes brought about by the new container method of moving goods, the waterfront has gone from a no-go slum, to an exciting place to explore and enjoy. Stevedores no longer queue every morning in the hope of a day’s work, manually unloading the multitude of ships berthed in the docks that can still be reached from the Mersey. All of this activity has moved to modern dock facilities out towards Bootle. In the place of gangs of stevedores slaving deep within the holds of ships arriving from exotic parts of the world, giant cranes each operated by one single driver high above the ground, offload containers, sending them away on the backs of lorries towards their waiting markets. The old docks and their abandoned warehouses have become tourist venues, or a centre for water sports. What was once foul and almost poisonous water is now safe for swimming competitions, or water skiing using a clever system of fixed drag ropes; we even saw a cormorant which can only mean that the water has fish in it. Backed by a semi-permanent fairground, the Albert Dock in the centre of the restored docks and warehouses, now houses the Tate Liverpool art gallery, Merseyside Maritime Museum and the International Slavery Museum. By publicising its links with slavery, Liverpool has bravely admitted to its part in this cruel system that brought wealth to a few, but bewildering and inhuman treatment of those considered inferior and only fit for use alongside beasts of burden. Not only were slaves uprooted from their African homes, but people from both sides of the Irish Sea travelled through Liverpool on their way to a hopefully, better life far away. Ships still occasionally berth alongside the modernised waterfront, but these are more than often cruise liners calling on this international city with a rich cultural and maritime past, home of world-class shopping and dining – and all within walking distance of the waterfront. There are smaller ships tying up alongside the liners at Pier Head. These are the famous Mersey Ferries, immortalized by Gerry and the Pacemakers song, ‘Ferry ‘cross the Mersey’. This tune is played over and over again on the way across to Birkenhead and, it must be admitted, to be rather a bore. Each of the ferries is named after a spring flower. Iris and Daffodil are pre-fixed by Royal, an honour bestowed by the late King George V. Two Mersey ferries, the Iris and Daffodil as they were then known, took part in the attack on Zeebrugge harbour in World War 1. In honouring their heroism, the king decreed that both ferries and all those following them with the same name, would be called Royal. There is another, the Snowdrop, but as its forerunner was not involved in the attack, it is simply Snowdrop. However this lack of a royal accolade is made up by its being painted in a psychedelic colour scheme. The Beatles & The Liver Birds A slightly larger than life-sized statue of the ‘fab four’, the Beatles, Liverpool’s favourite sons, stands opposite the Liver Building designed for the Royal Liver Assurance Group, by Walter Aubrey Thomas and opened in 1911. The twin clock towers of the Grade 1 listed building are topped by the famous Liver Birds, symbols of Liverpool and surrounded by local mythology. One of the many stories about the birds is that the one facing the river is a female waiting for her lover to return; the other is a male who is looking inland to see if the pubs are open. Local belief also says that if the birds disappeared then Liverpool would cease to exist. There is a line in the Beatle’s song ‘In my Liverpool home’, that goes ‘If you want a cathedral, we’ve got one to spare’. The two cathedrals, Anglican and Catholic sit at either ends of Hope Street. The two are in complete contrast; the Anglican dedicated to Christ in Liverpool is Gothic and took 74 years to build before it opened in 1978. Standing at the opposite end of Hope Street, the Catholic Christ the King Cathedral is of more modern design. It was originally proposed to be built in 1853 to a design by Sir Edwyn Lutyens, the architect who created New Delhi. Unfortunately the time span clashed with the rapid growth of Irish Catholics fleeing the potato famine in Ireland. As a result, the money was wisely spent on educating immigrant children. Several attempts to start building were made over the intervening years, each to a different design, but it took until 1967 before Sir Frederick Gibbard’s plans created the modernistic ‘Crown of Thorns’ on top of high ground above the city. In typical Liverpudlian humour, the tower has been called ‘Paddy’s Wigwam’, and ‘the Pope’s Launching Pad’. The senior clerics of both Liverpool cathedrals, Archbishop Derek Warlock and cricketer Bishop David Shephard who was capped for England between 1950 and 1963, worked closely together in the aftermath of the Toxteth riots in 1981 and the tragedies at the Heysel Stadium in 1985 and Hillsborough in 1985. Half way along Hope Street there is a statue to the two honouring their co-operation and friendship. Even here there is an example of Liverpudlian humour – if you look carefully at Bishop David Sheppard’s feet you will see a cricket ball, something the sculptor couldn’t resist adding. Humour is an everyday part of the Liverpudlian character, just think how many comedians have come from there – from Arthur Askey to Ken Dodd, that son of Knotty Ash (yes it is a
Dining at the Hope & Anchor
Standing proudly on the market place in the centre of Wirksworth is The Hope and Anchor, a grade two listed 17th century stone building. Closed in 2016 but now under new management and with around £100,000 spent on refurbishment, along with a new chef, The Hope and Anchor is now open for business. On their website they proudly proclaim that they are, “A good pub with real pub food”. Our visit, along with two long standing friends one Friday evening in mid July was a great opportunity to put that claim to the test. Occupying a prominent position in Wirksworth it was easy to let your mind slip back to the days in 1306 when the town was granted market status and would be jammed with colourful stalls and people plying their trades many of which are now lost. Over the years, with wealth generated by lead mining and stone quarrying, this market town came to be graced by some of the most lovely, historic, stone buildings. But now to our dining experience. We were welcomed by General Manager Jack, who showed us to our table in the large restaurant area, the rear of which is elevated. The late evening sun poured through the windows as we sat at a rustic table with plenty of space around us, it was so pleasant not to be squeezed in elbow to elbow with other diners. The décor here is contemporary with lovely muted shades, the walls have been partially clad with wood of various colours some featuring the imprint appropriately of an anchor. There are many nice rustic touches whilst the old building still retains many original features, which is quite fitting as it’s Rustic Inns who took over this pub in November 2017 and have worked tirelessly to put together a dining and drinking experience to suit current trends. Our waitress for the evening was Jersey who explained how much she enjoyed the food that the new chef was producing. Three of us ordered starters while one was saving herself for pudding! “It’s worth the wait” said Jersey. My starter was tomato bruschetta which consisted of three slices of rustic bread, tomato, chilli topped with torn mozzarella. A firm favourite of mine, not too overpowering and very clean tasting, a cracking start. Mike devoured his house pate infused with thyme, garlic and mushrooms, it was smooth and spread with ease on to the rustic bread. Generous triangles of salted butter and a homemade chutney accompanied it. Jane chose the battered prawns, dipped and fried in a very light tempura batter and served over a fresh salad, the pot of sweet chilli and lime dipping sauce perfectly added that touch of heat and sweetness. The farmers pie of the day was minced beef and onion which was encased in thin short crust pastry, and I chose the double cooked rustic chips. The pie was lovely and moist and was served with a boat of gravy too which was a bonus, the ‘skin on chips’ were very chunky and the buttered greens not over cooked. Mike’s ale battered cod was served on a wooden board and was huge, even for Mike who has a healthy appetite. Lockwoods mushy peas and sea salted double cooked rustic chips were served with this and a pot of homemade tartare sauce and wedge of lemon completed the dish. His determination to finish was testimony to how enjoyable it was. Julie tried the vegetarian curry which was quite hot and had a good variety of vegetables, her only comment was that she maybe missed a naan bread to go with it. Finally, Jane ordered the homemade lasagne, a slight twist on the usual with smoked bacon and red wine and tomato sauce added to the beef. This made for a very rich dish, but with a beautiful flavour, and the side salad was the freshest I’ve had anywhere. As predicted Mike and I passed on puddings, but Jane and Julie went for and enjoyed a lovely light and fresh raspberry mousse and a baked lemony cheesecake, both homemade and highly recommended. That really sums up the food here: locally sourced wherever possible, the chef has an eye for adding that extra something which lifts this good food just up another level. The presentation too is modern with delicate flower and micro leaf garnishes where appropriate. We had a great evening and there were many more dishes on the varied menu that we would have liked to try, and for those with not so large an appetite there is a ‘Lite bite’ menu available until 6pm. On Sundays there are traditional roasts alongside a reduced weekday menu. But, there’s still plenty there to tempt you at the Hope and Anchor. We all agreed that the Hope and Anchor is “A good pub, with real pub food, and a good collection of real ales. The music is pleasant and not too intruding, and they have a young group of staff that are friendly, relaxed and eager to please. It’s a great place to unwind at the end of the week. 00
Derbyshire Antiques & Collectibles – Royal Mint Collectors’ Coins
One of the tasks I seem to spend vast quantities of time on when I am working at Bamfords is cataloguing collections of coins. Much of what comes in is base metal and well used, and has little value; some is in various purities of silver and needs sorting. If circulated, everything not a rarity is estimated at bullion price. Collectors though like their coins in the best possible condition, even, if possible the scarce and rare ones. Other collectors buy new issues from the Mint direct so that they do not have to worry about the arcane business of grading for wear. The Mint issues coins either in brilliant uncirculated (BU) condition (that is, as first issued), or proof. The latter is when the specimens are struck from specially polished dies, giving the field a mirror-like brilliance, and often, these days, with the relief portions of the design given a frosted finish to enhance the contrast. The mint tends to issue both base metal and precious metal examples of most issues and, since realising how much extra money they can make from having several different commemoratives each year, there is a bewildering choice. Furthermore, buying direct means that one pays a premium even for the simplest (card folder) packaging, let alone de luxe and executive packaging, involving hefty leather and satin rich presentation boxes. The coins themselves, if BU, are worth their face value; the mint’s packaging thus makes them expensive to buy and takes a couple of generations to recoup the outlay. For instance, as I write, today’s paper carries an advertisement from the Mint about a Paddington Bear 50p issue, which is BU base metal and can be yours for £3.99 plus postage: that is, a mark-up of £3.49. If the issue is proof, then it loses value less and, of course, with issues struck in precious metals at least their bullion value remains in line with gold and silver process generally. Yet in both cases the purchase price includes a hefty mark-up to cover manufacturing costs (special dies) and better grade packaging. Proof coins have been officially issued since 1887 (earlier ones were strictly unofficial, especially prior to 1731/32), as have another popular collector’s item, the specimen set: in these one buys all the coins issued for a particular year in a special package, either BU, proof or precious metal proofs. Specimen sets used to be issued only at the beginning of a new reign or when the obverse (head side) changed, eg. 1887, 1893, 1902. 1911, 1927. 1937 and so on. It was not until 1977 that yearly specimen sets became regular, although at first they were BU only and base metal, until 1981 when the £5 coin and sovereign were included. Indeed, gold only sets – £5, £2 sovereign and half sovereign) were issued in 1982, although the £2 was thereafter dropped, re-appearing as a base metal coin from 1986 and regularly a decade later. With so much choice, collecting from new becomes a matter of deciding what you like and can afford, but do not expect your investment to grow for a considerable time, unless you are well enough off to collect bullion coins. Many collectors stick to crown coins – old 5/-, then 25p but more recently with face value of £5. Again, there are many commemorative issues. There are at least one commemorative each year these days, and one can collect the standard £5 coin from your bank or building society, but there are also base metal proofs, silver proofs and gold ones, too. Furthermore, sometimes the proofs are struck double thickness – called a piedfort – and since 2004 these have also been issued in platinum – current list price £4,000 plus! I shall cover commemorative crowns on another occasion, however. Well-struck coins are essentially a miniature work of art, but the best way to collect them is to buy at auction, preferably in their unopened sets. Whereas today you might pay £55 for this year’s specimen BU set, £95 for the current commemoratives in a set (£5 Prince Louis, three £2: RAF, Armistice and Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein and a 50p for the 1918 Representation of the People Act), you then could also shell out £210 for a premium proof set and no less than £550 for the silver proof set struck as piedforts. At auction in a year or two, when collections get to the saleroom, prices are going to be more like £20, £45, £80 and £285 respectively. Incidentally, the 5 coin commemorative set also comes in gold (at a price). The latest trend, started by the private mints (like Pobjoy, Westminster, London Mint Office etc., mainly at the instigation of the marketing executives of various insular crown colonies etc.) has been to issue proofs in base metal or bullion with coloured enamel designs: hence the Royal mint will now sell you a Peter Rabbit set or a Winnie the Pooh set (both basically 50 pence coins) with coloured Peter or Winnie in various engaging contexts. The former is a set of four, the latter only two, and will cost you 10p BU or £60 enamelled, whilst there is no reduction if you buy the coins in a set, for while the Peter Rabbit sequence is not sold as a set, for Paddington’s set of two – £120; you can even order the latter in gold, a snip at £780! The sensible thing to do is to concentrate on a particular period, like specimen sets pre-2000, or pre-decimal issues and buy at auction or from reputable dealers. That way you will accumulate really rather attractive coins, mainly attractively packaged, which will also have a chance of appreciating. And, of course, rarity counts, so buy a price guide: Seaby, Coin News and MyHobbyStore all produce helpful ones, but most important, the former two both give mintages which will guide you as to rarity. +10
Celebrity Interview – Ian Hislop & Nick Newman
He’s known as a magazine editor, journalist, screenwriter and television comedy quiz show panellist. Now Ian Hislop has revealed yet another talent: playwright. The editor of Private Eye and one of the captains on Have I Got News For You has been collaborating with Nick Newman since they were at boarding school and they are bringing to Nottingham their play The Wipers Times. Ian sticks to what he knows well: The Wipers Times tells the true, extraordinary story of a satirical newspaper created in the mud and mayhem of the Somme. He says: “I was presenting a documentary about the First World War. I came across a reference to The Wipers Times and there was a joke quoted from one issue. I followed it up and I could see that it made the most brilliant story which was much too good to be used in a mere documentary.” Nick adds: “What was so extraordinary about it was the fact that it was original source material, written on the frontline by troops on active service. What stood out was that it was genuinely funny and that the jokes had survived the test of time. “We wanted to revisit the material in some way so we wrote a three-page document about how we’d recreate the theatre of war. We put the idea of making a film about The Wipers Times to the BBC and we then heard nothing for ten years! “This was in 2003. Nobody was interested in the subject. Then along came Birdsong by Sebastian Faulks, War Horse at the National Theatre and in the West End, and the Spielberg film. “Paradoxically this revival of interest in the period worked against us. Who’d want to put on a play or make a film that’s set in World War One when Birdsong and War Horse had been so successful? “Then, completely out of the blue, we got a commission to make a drama documentary about The Wipers Times for the BBC as one of the programmes marking the centenary of the war.” The duo believe they had so much trouble selling the idea of The Wipers Times because they were concentrating on a very different aspect of the conflict. “Sometimes you get the impression that nobody ever laughed during the period between 1914 and 1918,” says Ian. “The whole experience of World War One had been coloured by poets publishing in the 1920s and the memoirs and dramas written in the 1930s,” says Nick. “Audiences were looking for a different experience. What The Wipers Times was doing at the time was putting a smile back on people’s faces.” Hislop and Newman have been doing that throughout their careers. They appeared in revues at school together, both went to Oxford University and they worked together on Private Eye. Ian, born on July 13th, 1960, became editor of the satirical magazine in 1986. He is reputedly the most sued man in English legal history. Even before Ian became the boss Nick, born two years earlier, was working for Private Eye as a cartoonist. Their partnership began to thrive. They wrote scripts for the sardonic television series Spitting Image and also penned sketches for The Harry Enfield Show, creating the character Tim Nice-But-Dim. Ian continues to have the higher profile of the two, joining Have I Got News For You when it started in 1990. He is the only person to have appeared in every episode. The Wipers Times is set in a bombed-out building in the Belgian town of Ypres which British soldiers pronounced Wipers. Two officers, Captain Fred Roberts and Lt Jack Pearson of the 12th Battalion, Sherwood Foresters – a Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire regiment – discover a printing press and create a newspaper for the troops. It was far from being a sombre journal about life in the trenches. The officers produced a resolutely cheerful, subversive and very funny newspaper designed to lift the spirits of the men on the front line. The Wipers Times rolled off the press for two years and was an extraordinary tribute to the soldiers’ resilience in the face of overwhelming adversity. In 2013 the BBC broadcast Ian and Nick’s dramatisation. Captain Roberts was played by Ben Chaplin and Lt Pearson by Julian Rhind-Tutt. Michael Palin and Emilia Fox played supporting roles. But Ian and Nick always had the idea of adapting The Wipers Times for the stage. “All the way through the process, we thought of it as a play,” says Ian. “On the face of it, it’s all jolly poems and spoofs but it’s also very subversive. There’s a letter from a reader asking for advice. Is it permissible, he asks, to shoot a superior officer? He receives the reply that it is, given extenuating circumstances.” Nick adds: “The film got such a fantastic response that we felt it wasn’t going to represent the end of the story. We’d written our first play, A Bunch of Amateurs, in 2014. It was our first attempt at writing for the stage and it was produced by the Watermill Theatre near Newbury. “It went down so well that the Watermill told us if there was anything else we wanted to do, they’d be interested in seeing it. So we suggested joining forces on The Wipers Times.” The play toured the UK in 2016 and 2017. It also had a run at the Arts Theatre in the West End last year. Now it is touring again for nearly two months before returning to the West End for a seven-week season. There were a number of other trench journals apart from The Wipers Times, so what made it special? Ian has no doubts. “It was funnier – and ruder! I have a friend who’s a captain in the Royal Engineers and she brought a party of her sappers to see the show. I was a little worried about how it would go down with the men but she reassured me. She said that the way the guys were represented was exactly how the guys behaved.”
The Andulucia Touch
Winding our way up the hills into the Andulucia area of Spain from Malaga airport afforded the opportunity to travel at the same level as the buzzards, not quite so spectacular were the moans of “I feel sick” from the back of the Mercedes Vito. We didn’t stop, as we knew it would soon pass! Cruel but true, safe in the knowledge that promises of ‘Grande Cervesa’ would be enough to cure it. There were two routes to Ronda, our destination: via Cartama, Pizzara and El Burgo, or my favourite, to follow the AP-7 as far as San Pedro and then up the A-397. Just look at it on the map and see how it meanders it’s way to Ronda. We started this climb on an unusually cloudy day in July and visibility at times was pretty poor. After about an hour we suddenly came through the cloud and broke out into bright sunshine. It was as though someone had just switched a light on taking us all by surprise and part cured the travel sickness! We then realised how high we had climbed as we were level with a buzzard floating not 100 yards across the ravine. Concentration however is needed on this road and I wouldn’t recommend it to the tired driver. But this is the road to go up, not come down as that’s slightly scary in a hire car with brakes that aren’t 100%. Ronda is and always will be in my top five destinations in Europe. This moorish town has seen a lot of action and boasts the most delightful gorge. Walks around the walls take you straight back in time. If it’s stunning views and instant access from your hotel to an old town you require, you can’t do better than the Parador du Ronda, it’s smack on the edge of the gorge and sports a variety of rooms including duplex rooms complete with long balconies ideal for partying on. The pool isn’t huge but is in the right place for the sun. The terrace wraps around the hotel and again offers views over the valley below. As is normal in Spain there’s always someone playing Cavatina on a guitar. I was heartily sick of the guy in the square who played it constantly, I wished he’d learned another song to go with it. Every time we went out, there he was selling CDs of himself playing 12 songs. Yes, in case you’re wondering, I did pick one up to look and see if he could play anything else. So why didn’t he? The gorge separates the new(!) 15th century town from the old Moorish one. The stone bridge ‘Puente Nuevo’ spans the gorge and if it’s open you can pay to go down into the gaol built into the bridge. Just off the square is the famous 18th century bullring where you can hear crowds roaring occasionally when it is still in use. On the Moorish side of town is Palacio de Mondragon, a public museum in a 14th century house. Just along from the museum is Parca Duquesa de Parcent where a small bar serves excellent coffee and cakes. The park also comes complete with Cavatina playing guitarist selling records. This one has an amplifier too, so his mistakes can be heard clearly. Further out of town and easy to walk to is Barrio de San Francisco. The bar Bodego San Francisco, on the street corner, is tremendous value for money with tapas food the best I had in the area and was able to observe the world go by. You have to put up with people opening their car doors on your back; check their web site and you’ll see I’m not joking when I say that as they are all seated on the street corner. It’s the place to go for a great night out. A short walk from the Parador Hotel to the park shows what family life is like here. Children playing, parents talking, grandparents sitting watching and the occasional dog wandering about. At 10.30pm all the park gates were locked, which took us by surprise as our villa was 50 yards from the park through a small gate and we then had to walk about a mile around the park to get back to our villa. It was a learning curve, from park ‘throwing out time’ everyone either goes home or to one of the bars in and around town and life continues until the early hours. Further into the square where many of the restaurants are, opposite the church, the children were enjoying a game of football with a small crowd of spectators. The fountain was the apparent goalpost at one end and the steps to the underground car park at the other. No one minded the game though. Everyone muddled in and if the ball came your way you just sent it back. Each morning an early walk into the town to avoid the tourists(!) afforded us the opportunity to enjoy ‘pan con tomate’ and coffee or ‘Churros with chocolate dipping sauce’ all served at speed with no moans. Just wave and the coffee keeps coming. Peeping through a rather large door about a quarter of a mile from town centre I was quite surprised when it opened to reveal a cavernous shop that specialised in port. The guy beckoned me in and even though we had no idea what each other was talking about, sign language was enough to show that I was being offered port and wine to try. I had a terrific time in the very cool, partly shaded shop, looking and trying his wares. (Oh and buying a bottle or two). Canny folk these Andalucians. Coach trips from the coast pour into Ronda at about 10.00 and disappear at 3.30. These trips seem to have become less over the years as the tough economy bit deep and Ronda’s shops suffered a little, but nothing can alter the beauty, position and
Dining Out at Viva Restaurant
Viva restaurant is well situated in the middle of Matlock on Dale Road; being close to a car park just around the corner. We visited this restaurant and discovered an idyllic place to eat in and experience that special Italian dining cuisine at a very cost effective price… On entering the restaurant we immediately felt delighted that we had chosen this venue. Viva is a stylish, modern and glamorous restaurant which offers a traditional Italian and contemporary cuisine. We were greeted by a waitress and taken to our table. Looking around, the open kitchen is impressive and pristine; together with the carefully chosen wallpapers and sculptures it all creates a totally enjoyable different dining experience. We were struck by the hustle and bustle of the restaurant, even on a raining mid week evening the restaurant was busy. And soon we were to find out why… Having examined the extensive menu of traditional dishes my partner eventually (with the expert recommendation from our waitress) chose the Cozze al Vapore at £6.95. This delicious dish consisted of steamed mussels in a cream, lemon and garlic sauce. I went for the Funghi Dolcelatte priced at just £4.95. Also delicious – the button mushrooms were stuffed with the famous Italian Dolcelatte cheese, coated in breadcrumbs and then baked in the oven and served with ciabatta bread. For our main dishes, my partner chose the Filletto Pepe Verde at £19.95. His fillet steak was cooked to perfection and the flambéd sauce of black peppercorns, brandy, French mustard and cream beautifully complimented it. He really was enthusiastic and remarked that it was one of the best steaks he has ever had! The dish was served with a garnish and French fries. Equally looking too good to eat was my choice of pasta. I chose the traditional Salsa di Pollo at £11.25. This popular pasta dish consisted of diced chicken breast, mushrooms, onions, fresh herbs and a hint of pomodoro and garlic in a creamy sauce. All this was washed down with a glass of house red and a Peroni beer. The appetising substantial portions had completely filled us up and so to finish the evening off we just had a couple of coffees. In conclusion, all the dishes were dazzlingly presented and bursting with flavour and nothing was too much trouble. It’s so good to have an Italian restaurant on ones doorstep that is excellent value for money and very affordable. Children are welcomed at Viva and I noticed the kids menu; for £6.95 they can choose any pizza or pasta from the menu, just in a smaller size. A massive thank you to Saj and their team. We’ll be back very soon so watch this space. 00
