Restaurant Review – Jeera, Codnor
The British love affair with ‘Indian’ cuisine has come a long way in the past 50 years. From the days when anything with a hint of chili and a whiff of cumin was called a curry, to today when we can dine on authentic regional variations from the subcontinent. For example Eastern Indian cuisine is primarily known for its desserts. Where as Vindaloo is a traditional Goan dish from western India; an Indian restaurant mainstay. The cuisine of the countries and regions in the north, including Bangladesh, reflect a strong Mughal influence. It is characterized by a high use of dairy: milk, paneer (an Indian mild cheese), ghee (clarified butter), and yogurt are all used regularly in Northern dishes. Samosas, fried pastries stuffed with potatoes and occasionally meat, are a distinctive Northern snack. Clay ovens known as tandoors are popular in the North, giving dishes like tandoori chicken and naan bread their distinctive charcoal flavour. A local exponent of this distinctive cuisine is Jeera in Codnor; an authentic Bangladeshi restaurant. It’s been a few months since we were last here and we had been told that the restaurant had undergone some changes. At first glance, the interior at Jeera, the soft lighting and the clever use of spotlights in the bar, appeared just as I remembered it. However, changes have been made. The dining area decor has been tweaked but the most noticeable change is the seating. Gone are the tall heavy, brown chairs replaced by comfortable, light coloured, fabric covered tub style chairs. As a result the area appears more spacious and warmer. We settled in to the comfortable surroundings and I ordered a tall glass of cold Cobra beer for myself and a chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc for Susan. We sipped our drinks, chatted and nibbled on plain poppadoms accompanied by the usual dipping sauces and pickles: a smooth mango chutney, a hot green chili and lime sauce and a spicy diced red onion pickle. The service at Jeera is not hurried. It gives you time to read the menu and the extensive descriptions of the dozens of dishes on offer, from the simple vegetable samosa to the hearty mixed platter. For my starter I selected the fish shashlick. Fish is a staple in Bangladeshi cuisine and the shashlick is a traditional barbeque technique. The dish consisted of several portions of white fish cooked in a mild, slightly sweet marinated sauce with green peppers, tomatoes and onion, garnished with coriander. The fish was beautifully cooked and flaked apart when I cut in to it. The mildly spiced sauce had a smokey note but didn’t overpower the meaty fish making it a tasty, light starter. Susan opted for onion bhajis as her starter. A traditional mildly spiced first course; it consisted of 2 bhajis coated with chickpea batter, deep-fried to produce a light, crispy coat but retaining a soft and aromatic centre, served with salad and creamy mint and yogurt dip. The mild spices, the soft onions and the creamy sauce made it a light, savoury prelude to the main meal. Susan’s choice, from the long list of main course dishes, was the lamb pasanda; another traditional cooking style with its origins in the very north of the subcontinent. This pasanda was a mild, creamy curry with a hint of spice that set the taste buds tingling. It was cooked with sultanas and cashew nuts giving it added flavour and making it slightly sweet; a perfect counter point to the texture of the plentiful, tender lamb. Along with a choice of seafood mains the menu abounds with chicken and lamb dishes; ranging from the hot and spicy Naga Chicken to the tikka biryani; recommended for those who are new to Bangladeshi cuisine. The original driving force behind Jeera, Mr Rahman gained the notable accolade of Derbyshire Chef of the year and his renowned chicken Jalali dish is still on the menu today. A firm favourite with Jeera customers along with another favourite; the chicken chili ambari. Of the two, I went for the ambari. I now understand why it has gained it’s popularity. Marinated chicken breasts are cooked in the restaurant’s clay oven then blended with their home made chili sauce of green peppers, chopped onions and tomatoes. Although the chili sauce was bursting with warmth and flavour it didn’t mask the tender, tandoor cooked chicken which remained the star of the dish. The flavour balance was perfect and I would order chili ambari again. We shared a dish of plain boiled rice and, freshly cooked in their clay oven, one of the best garlic and coriander naans we have ever tasted. We had enjoyed such a relaxing evening at Jeera that we couldn’t stop talking about it in the taxi on our way home. Our thanks go to all the staff at Jeera for the attentive service and the amazing flavoursome food. 0-1
Hidden Gem of Food & Drink – The Boot, Repton
Turning the corner onto Boot Hill in Repton, the self-proclaimed capital of Mercia, I immediately thought “I should have arrived on a horse!” Everything seemed to be linked to the past and, in all honesty, I love that. The Boot, a 17th Century coaching Inn, is owned, managed and run by people with a fierce passion for what they do… and they’re very good at it. Rewarded for their success with a second AA Rosette in two years is testament to Chef Rob Taylor’s passion for food supported by his highly trained kitchen team who maintain that standard when he isn’t around. At front of house is Manager Rick Graham, who exudes the same enthusiasm for customer care. Drinking a cup of coffee chatting with Rob and Rick I could see that both are keen to keep pushing ‘The Boot’ forward with expansion of the team, more training and menu development. Chef Rob has his own allotment where he grows various things to take home and experiment with, creating new recipes and dishes which he can then introduce to the restaurant when he is satisfied. He is proud to be sourcing food from local suppliers including dry aged beef from Tori and Ben’s Farm Butchery in Melbourne where their sister business ‘Harpurs’ is situated. Rob and Rick have thoroughly enjoyed their three and a half year journey working in tandem and they have a good sense of humour too which I enjoyed. When you book a table it’s yours for the evening should you so wish. They both were quite adamant at this point that those who visit ‘The Boot’ should enjoy the experience from the high quality accommodation to their award -winning food. In for a pint at ‘The Boot’. A highlight too of my visit was to enjoy a pint of beer produced from their own, on site brewery. As creatures of habit, a beer drinker will generally stick to what he knows. When faced with a bar full of pumps with beer names never seen before the mind gets very confused. Various areas of the country sport their own particular ales and tucked behind the ‘The Boot’ is the Boot Micro Brewery from which flows thousands of pints of the finest quality beers which are on sale at ‘The Boot’ Repton, ‘Harpur’s of Melbourne and The Dragon at Willington. Head Brewer Jon Archer took over the brewing just over a year ago. I asked Jon what his background was. He replied “33 years in IT”, I wasn’t expecting that. There’s obviously more to this tale and it transpired that he was an avid home brewer, a skill he developed to replicate brewing at a small commercial level. So, when the offer came from the owners of ‘The Boot’ at Repton, to manage and develop their micro brewery, it was an unmissable opportunity. Home brewing is an art this author never perfected and after two failed attempts and two bouts of illness after drinking it(!) I decided to leave it to the experts and stay firmly on the customer side of the bar. Jon explained the ins and outs of brewing to me and it’s a pretty straightforward process which becomes very complicated when trying to maintain consistency. I was taken aback by the control exercised over brewing a popular beer to maintain consistency and satisfy the regular ‘same pint’ drinker. Asking anyone how they like their beer will elicit numerous replies ‘hoppy, malty, fruity, strong, dark, pale” are among many of the responses, but how do you cater for that on the bar. Much can depend on type of hop, where it comes from, yeast used etc. John selects the finest hops from around the country and from abroad to blend them into great tasting beer. The latest brew ‘Willow’ was launched in April and, as a low alcohol light ale, is harder to brew because low alcohol beers can feel too thin so need building up, but to his credit it has gone really well and is proving extremely popular. I watched as Jon checked the progress of fermentation in stage for the latest batch of ‘Clod Hopper’ which gave me an insight to the accurate records needed to maintain consistency. Ten percent of this, so much of that, this specific temperature and much more. (The exact details are a secret though and not for my eyes!) This is recorded ready for the next batch. Jon shared with me his knowledge of how life works in the Boot brewery, from designing to creating a beer influenced by Jon’s skilled palette which is suitable for production. I smiled as he took me to see and taste a drink in its early stages of creation, of which the base ingredient was rhubarb. I love rhubarb crumble, but I’ve never drunk it! The first taste was quite pleasant and I thought maybe a good drink but then came the next tasting made with a different yeast which took it to a whole different level on the taste buds. And that, as they say is the crux of the matter, the master brewer, in this case Jon, is using his skills and taste buds to create something everyone will love. Some of his great creations haven’t made it to front of house yet as they are still being developed. Passion and creativity rules everywhere at ‘The Boot’. By now it was time for lunch and, having been shown the brewery I needed to sample some of the 13 ales! Obviously, that’s not practical so Jon just let me select one that I fancied from the bar. At this point I wished I had come on a horse because I could just have jumped on and said, “Home Trigger”. It seems to me that whatever your passion, you’re going to be very spoilt at ‘The Boot’, the gastronomic hidden gem capital of Mercia. 00
Restaurant Review – The Peacock at Rowsley
As we crossed the threshold I blushed a little as I suddenly recalled that my last visit to The Peacock at Rowsley, some years ago admittedly, was with a previous boyfriend who had impeccable taste and was the owner of a small hotel on Jersey. This visit was on a very wet April evening with my lovely husband, and, as we were shown into the bar where a fire roared in the grate, I felt the same sense of history in this beautiful old hotel. Situated on the A6 through Rowsley, The Peacock Hotel is a grade II listed former manor house built in 1652, and as part of the Haddon Estate it is presently owned by Lord and Lady Edward Manners. Dan Smith, a Michelin trained chef, has for the last 10 years with his team earned The Peacock a place in the top 10% of restaurants in the country with 3 AA Rosettes. Assistant manager Katie welcomed us and showed us into the bar which is like stepping back in time with its heavily leaded stone mullion windows and uneven flagged floors. Serving both a bar and à la carte menu, we enjoyed a pre-dinner drink while we made our menu choices and began to unwind after a challenging day. Here too we were served an ‘amuse bouché’ of roast butternut squash and blue cheese dressed with truffle oil, this was rich and intense in flavour with a side of beef tartare and pickled cucumber which really awoke the taste buds. Shown into the dining room by Oliver, the food and beverage manager, we were seated under the watchful eyes of Lord Robert Manners (the portrait of course), who was killed April 12 1782. As the room filled there was friendly chatter among some of the resident guests making a very convivial atmosphere. My starter of hand picked crab was mixed with delicate pink beetroot cured salmon with a little heat added by the horseradish, a classic accompaniment. My husbands’ spinach ravioli was soft and silky, filled with the soft yolk of an egg, with sweet little peas it sat on a butter and chive sauce. From a well-balanced selection of main dishes I chose the Goosnargh chicken, run through with wild garlic and with a crisp skin, it was beautifully moist. Circled by buttery leeks and morels it was served with a side of an individual chicken pie piped with soft potato. The soft texture of the morels against the chicken was delicious. The flavour of my husbands beef fillet and the rich beef cheek made him smile, it just fell apart. It was served with charred artichoke, spring cabbage and miso. A light and fresh citrus Greek yogurt and sorbet was served pre dessert as a palette cleanser. As well as a dessert menu there was also my choice, a ‘Tart of the day’ which was a lemon tart with a light, thin, buttery pastry shell and beautifully sharp lemon filling it had a thin brittle caramel top. The rhubarb and fromage frais dessert served for my husband was both a work of art visually and had a great balance of texture and flavours, I just couldn’t resist sneaking a taste. We took our coffee and delicate, handmade petits fours in the lounge, a quiet and relaxing area. We had enjoyed a really outstanding meal, beautifully prepared by a true artist, with flavours balanced with skill and care, using only the finest ingredients. The staff were both attentive but discreet, most of them having worked here for the last ten years creating a seamless team and well deserved fine reputation. Our evening was truly memorable in every respect, and it is abundantly obvious why The Peacock at Rowsley sits comfortably amongst our finest hotels. For reservations contact 01629 733518 or email reception@thepeacockatrowsley.com 00
Eating Out – Kinara, Willington
Love it or loath it you can not ignore the fact that the A38, when it’s on form, has reduced journey times in our part of the county. We had a table booked at the Kinara in Willington and on a chilly Tuesday evening the relaxed drive from Ripley to the restaurant, situated on The Castle Way in the centre of the village, was less than 40 minutes. The night was getting colder as we hurried through the restaurant entrance in to the reception area and bar. After a warm and friendly greeting we cast our eyes over the well stocked bar which boasted an impressive selection of beers and spirits that included a dozen or more varieties of gin. With the introductions over, we were shown to our table in the spacious dining area. The interior has been decorated with a light and thoughtful touch using a reduced colour palate on everything from the accent wall finish to the linen napkins. In Hindi, Kinara means at the edge and is usually used to mean the edge of water and this is emphasised in one of the large pieces of wall art in the restaurant. The unobtrusive background music is classical Indian that has been given a Bollywood twist. This further enhanced the relaxed atmosphere. We ordered poppadoms and the mixed pickle tray to pick at while we read through the menu. The poppadoms were warm, fresh, crisp and melted in the mouth. The accompanying variety of pickles and dips was so tasty and different that we took our time to nibble while we decided what to order. The Kinara is an authentic Indian restaurant and this is reflected in the number of fish and vegetarian dishes that are available. After a lot of deliberation Susan chose the prawn puri as her starter. This was pan fried prawns who’s delicate flavour was not overwhelmed by the blended spices they were cooked in. The dish was finished with fresh lemon juice and fresh green coriander. It was served on a puri; an unleavened, deep-fried bread. I selected one of the vegetarian dishes: 3 medallions of aloo tikki. This is Indian snack food. Mashed potato is blended with spices, coated with spiced gram flour and carefully pan fried until golden. The warmth of the spices was tempered by a cool salad of green peas, chickpeas and spinach accompanied by a smooth yoghurt and tamarind dressing. The lamb saagwala, a house special, was Susan’s main dish. This was a generous portion of a traditional home cooked dish full of authentic but mild, flavours; made with fresh spinach, onions, tomatoes and green chillies. The lamb was tender and the spinach, added at the last minute, retained its flavour and colour. The final ingredient, yoghurt, made this saagwala smooth and creamy. A Peshwari naan, rich with coconut, was the perfect partner for this dish. My selection was the butter chicken. The tender pieces of locally farmed chicken had been marinated and cooked in a charcoal tandoor oven. Then further cooked in, and served with, a slightly sweet and spicy tomato sauce made smooth with powdered cashew nuts. The sweetness was offset by a smokey, citrus note of, I think, fenugreek and lemon. Finished with a dash of cream and garnished with fresh coriander this was another generous portion I didn’t want to leave. Unable to resist kulfies, especially when flavoured with pistachio, we completed the evening by sharing 2 scoops of the delicious, milk rich, pale green, frozen desert. Everything about the Kinara reflects the owners’ passion to give the diner an enjoyable and memorable experience. The restaurant has a reputation of supporting local producers and takes great pride in its use of fresh ingredients. Everything is cooked to order so you can dictate the level of spice in your chosen dish. They even filter their own still and sparkling table water, presented in impressive proprietary bottles. The Kinara is a place where we will return, with friends, and spend the evening in a relaxed atmosphere enjoying superb Indian cuisine. 00
Eating Out – The Dog Inn, Pentrich
Many years ago, before man had walked on the moon or The Beatles had got together, one of the simple highlights of a warm summer Sunday evening was to walk with my brother and our parents to The Dog at Pentrich. Our route was via Lowes Hill, Hammersmith, Asher Fields (no A38 in those days) and in to the village. The stroll was timed to put us outside The Dog at precisely 7pm; the time local licensing laws permitted public houses to open on Sunday evenings. Too young to enter the pub, me and my brother would sit outside on a low wall, bottle of Vimto in one hand and a bag of crisps in the other. Our most recent evening visit to the Dog Inn was not going to be for Vimto and crisps but to discover what the new chef, Adam, was offering on the completely re-styled menu. The Dog Inn has changed dramatically over the years; it’s larger; the main extension houses the dining area and has a contemporary interior but still retains many of its period features. It also boasts a wood-burning stove. A welcome site on a cold January night. Jane who, from the start of the New Year, has taken over running the front of house met us. This is a family affair; Jane along with her husband Graham run the bar and restaurant and Chef Adam is their son. Adam has worked in several well-known local restaurants and, until returning to Pentrich, was head chef at one of Sheffield’s top eateries. Some things change for the better and it was a delight to see the array of gins that are now on offer from ‘Bathtub’ through to ‘Rhubarb and Ginger’. Sue ordered a G&T made with the latter. It was served in a long stemmed copa glass which is shaped to enhance the botanicals in the gin. And some things don’t change; I ordered a pint of good old-fashioned Bass and it didn’t fail to delight. We sat and chatted in the cosy bar till our table was ready. Sue started with the soup of the day; a silky, smooth comforting leek and potato with house-baked focaccia; a pillow of soft dough laced through with olive oil infused sundried tomatoes. I chose the salt and chilli squid with a toasted sesame Asian style ketchup. Adam had made a change to the menu and the salad part of the dish was mostly fine strands of mooli. This cool, mild radish provided a counterpoint to the tempura batter on the squid and the hint of mild chilli in the ketchup. This is an ever-evolving menu as I witnessed when my main arrived with spinach; a welcome addition to the rich flavour of the slow cooked marinated blade of beef and the refreshing savoury note of the smooth celeriac fondant. Set on a bed of tangy white onion purée it was accompanied by sliced chestnut mushrooms and just the right amount of deep, dark real ale sauce. A salty note was provided by the crispy cooked pancetta. The plating was thoughtfully balanced and presented a visual feast. For her main Sue chose an 8oz rump steak with a peppercorn and whisky sauce; if there is a grill section to any menu it will always be her first choice. All the steaks are served with, chunky chips, Portobello mushroom, confit tomato, beer battered onion rings and a watercress salad. The steak was grilled beautifully; just the right amount of charring on the outside and still pink on the inside. Throughout the meal we never reached for any extra seasoning. After our unhurried starter and main we had a little room left for desserts; Sue chose the ice cream and I chose the lemon parfait. The ice cream was a trio of flavours, decorated with shards of French meringue, and served with raspberries, blueberries and a buttery, homemade shortbread biscuit. The parfait was served with sherbet, lemon curd and toasted almonds and again decorated with the French meringue. The Dog has a varied and quite extensive bar snacks and meals menu, served till 3pm in the afternoon and 9pm in the evening, which we will be returning to try. There are around 30 wines to choose from ranging from easily affordable whites and reds to some special occasion champagnes. But I still have a soft spot for those warm summer evenings of the late 1950s with a bottle of Vimto. 00
